Pinot Blanc, that white mutation of the world-famous Pinot Noir, has never had much of attention nor following. And I am not blaming anybody for it – whereas Pinot Noir can mace delicate, immensely attractive and infinitely complex red wines capable of withstand decades of aging, Pinot Blanc normally seems capable of producing only simple, soft and fruity white wines redolent of peaches and ripe apples and never aging further than a handful of years.
However, this is not always the case. For example, the variety seems to thrive in the German region of Rheinhessen, where quality-oriented producers can make remarkable white wines of astounding depth, structure and opulence out of Pinot Blanc – or Weissburgunder (or Weisser Burgunder) as it is known there. But it might just be that there is no other winery making as astounding and ageworthy Pinot Blancs as Cantina Terlano, the small and well-respected co-operative from South Tyrol, Northern Italy.
Pinot Blanc originated from Burgundy as a white mutation of the Pinot Noir – apparently not only once, but several times during the history – but it was often confused with the other local variety, Chardonnay. From Burgundy, the variety first travelled to Alsace and Switzerland, and later on all over the world. Though cultivated in small quantities in a big number of wine-producing countries, Pinot Blanc has found its home especially in Alsace, Luxembourg, Germany, Italy and Slovakia. In Alsace and Slovakia (where the variety is known as Rulandské Bílé) the variety is normally seen as a simple workhorse variety – mainly for making simple and inexpensive everyday wines. In Germany and Luxembourg many producers have realized the variety's potential, producing more impressive, structured and complex wines than the neighboring Alsace.
But what makes the aforementioned Cantina Terlano so unique is that so often Italian Pinot Bianco (the local synonym for Pinot Blanc) offers nothing of interest: the vines are usually planted in locations poorly suited to the variety, resulting wines that are either thin and neutral (if picked too early) or just simple, fruity and lacking structure (if picked ripe). This is why I was a little hesitant when I was invited to a two-day vertical of Pinot Bianco Vorberg. However, I didn't need much time convincing myself on going, remembering the reputation of winery in question and the few wines I had tasted from them.
Cantina Terlano, or Kellerei Terlan, is a co-operative founded by 24 South-Tyrol winegrowers in 1893. Unlike many other producers in Südtirol / Alto Adige (the local names for the bilingual region), that are often large and quantity-oriented, Cantina Terlano is a relatively small producer with 160 hectares (400 acres) and their main focus is on long-lived quality wines, result of severe reduction of yields, rigorous selection of the healthy grapes and keen winemaking utilizing old, large wooden barrels and extended sur lie aging. The co-op currently has 120 members, which means that the average holding for one grower is a little less than 1,5 ha.
Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva
DOC Südtirol / Alto Adige
- Cantina Terlano / Kelleri Terlan
- Country: Italy
- Region: Trentino - Südtirol / Alto Adige, Alto Adige
- Grape(s): Pinot Bianco (100%)
Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva (or just plain Pinot Bianco Vorberg until 2001) is one Cantina Terlano's flagship wines and considered to be one of the best (if not the best) Pinot Blanc wines in the world. Vorberg is a region of steep, south-to-southwest-facing vineyards at the altitudes between 450 and 950 meters above the sea level. In these vineyards grow the most concentrated and structured Pinot Bianco grapes of Cantina Terlano and from these grapes they make their spectacular varietal riserva wine. The wines are slowly fermented in old 3,000 liter oak casks, and after the fermentation the wines are left to age on the yeast lees (sur lie aging) in the same barrels for 12 months. The annual production is around 55,000 bottles.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2012
- Tasted on: September 30th, 2015
Pale lime-green color. Cool, alpine and somewhat restrained nose with cool aromas of yellow apple, wet stones and hints of citrus fruit. In the mouth the wine has a lot more weight with goods sense of richness and concentration. Intense flavors of juicy peach, ripe apple, some prickly mineral bitterness and a hint of pineapple. Despite its size the wine feels firm and structured, thanks both to bright minerality and high acidity. Slightly ripe-sweet, medium-length finish with succulent yellow stone fruits, stony minerality and a hint of herbal bitterness.
89/100
Summary: An intense, structured Pinot Blanc with a lot more depth and concentration than its peers from Alsace. However, lacks the complexity and impressiveness the best German Weissburgunders show.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2011
- Tasted on: September 30th, 2015
Pale lime-green color. Ripe, fruity nose showing peach-driven aromas of yellow stone fruits and some honeyed sense of maturity. Rich, lively and full-bodied palate but with surprisingly restrained flavor profile. The taste seems playful, but with fruit in the background and leaving very little on the fore; youthful flavors of apple and vague citrus fruits. With the lack of fruit, the high acidity feels a bit pronounced. Long, vibrant and more nuanced finish with ripe yellow fruit flavors, high acidity, some stony minerality and a hint of salinity.
87/100
Summary: A very restrained example of Vorberg Riserva; this vintage seemed almost austere compared to the rest of the wines. Might be that the wine is just in a dumb phase. A good Pinot Blanc, but nothing really memorable.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2009
- Tasted on September 30th, 2015
A hot vintage. Pale lime-green color with faint lemony yellow highlights. A little restrained, cool nose with aromas of sweet lemony citrus fruits and orange blossom, some vague yellow fruit, a hint of almonds and a whiff of apricot marmalade. Rich, full-bodied and concentrated palate with moderate acidity that seems to grow from underneath the succulent fruit flavors. Intense, opulent flavors of pineapple, ripe peach, some red apple and a hint of bitterness. Despite its opulence, there is definite sense of structure. The finish is as full-bodied and succulent as the midpalate, but along with flavors of sweet apple, peach and apricot, there are more pronounced notes of bitter minerality and herbs.
90/100
Summary: Although this is obviously a very big and ripe, even massive, Pinot Blanc, the 2009 vintage shows good, balanced structure. The wine is starting to show first signs of maturity, but it will definitely hold for years – if not for decades – in a cellar. Shows a lot of promise, but does not offer much else than big body and ripeness at the moment.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2008
- Tasted on September 30th, 2015
Moderately deep yellow-green color showing a hint of age. Very rich, complex and modestly developed nose with layered aromas of sweet, exotic fruits, yellow stone fruits, ripe yellow apple, some dried apricot, honeyed dessert wine nuances and a hint of vanillin. Quite full-bodied, intense and acid-driven – even a bit robust – in the mouth with powerful, concentrated flavors of ripe citrus fruits, wet rock minerality, almost ripe peaches and some green herbal nuances. The wine has impressive, almost tightly-wound structure. Though rich and opulent, the finish is also very powerful and structured with pronounced, long-lingering flavors of apricot, stony minerality, complex spice and some apple purée.
94/100
Summary: Out of the more recent vintages, the 2008 is easily the most impressive effort with a stunning combination of focused power and ripe, opulent fruit. The wine is starting to show some mature complexity, but the emphasis is on ripe, youthful fruit and the wine still has cellaring potential worth a decade or two left in it. Striking.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2007
- Tasted on September 30th, 2015
Medium-deep yellow-green color; a bit lighter than the 2008. The nose is surprisingly dry and restrained in character with aromas of steel, sweet apple, some nuttiness and a hint of bready oxidation – is the wine already past its peak? In the mouth the wine is quite light-bodied and more dry and ripe-sweet, with intense, high-acid structure. Powerful flavors of ripe red apple, peach, some lemon marmalade and hints of apple jam that show some sense of concentration. Long, vibrant and quite dry finish with more emphasis on freshness and acidity than on ripeness and opulence; flavors of citrus fruits, ripe apple, spicy minerality and some mouth-drying sense of astringency in the aftertaste.
91/100
Summary: A lot lighter and more restrained style of Vorberg here with less ripeness and more emphasis on acidity and fresh fruit flavors. Still in pristine condition, although the nose suggested otherwise; however, I'd wager this vintage will not hold as long as the bigger. Wonderful now and still has some room for further development in the cellar.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2005
Tasted on September 30th, 2015
Intense golden yellow color. Ripe and complex, but slightly muted nose with aromas of dried yellow fruits, some dried aromatic herbs, a little smoky nuttiness and a hint of bready oxidation. Full-bodied and moderately concentrated palate with somewhat developed flavors of ripe, succulent pear, dried yellow fruits, some spicy bitterness, sweet tangerine notes and a hint of caramel. Moderately long, lively and complex finish showing both some sweetness and freshness with bright acidity and layered flavors of lemony citrus fruits, lemon marmalade, some wizened apricot and a hint of nuttiness.
93/100
Summary: Really lovely and attractive example of a 10-years old Vorberg that is balancing nicely with some remnants of primary fruit, more concentrated fruit flavors and more developed, non-fruit tertiary notes. This wine is starting to show why one should keep Vorbergs in a cellar for years before opening them; it's just beginning to drink nicely. Will probably develop nicely over some years and will definitely keep at least for another decade.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2004
- Tasted on September 30th, 2015
Deep canary yellow color. Complex, layered bouquet redolent of developed nuances; aromas of old dry wood, powerful mirabelle plum fruit, developed spicy notes, some smoke, nuances of ripe and sweet yellow stone fruits, a little wizened apricot and a whiff of dried flowers. The wine is full in body with quite modest acidity and ample, sweet and developed fruit flavors. Notes of ripe citrus fruits, apricot, yellow plum marmalade, complex floral nuances, some stony minerality, aromatic herbal notes and a touch of lanolin waxiness. With its sense of maturity, silky texture and rather low acidity, the wine feels very smooth and restful in the mouth. The finish is very powerful, opulent and extremely lengthy with layered, intermingling nuances of yellow apple, peach, some stony minerality, a little honeyed florals and a touch of almonds.
92/100
Summary: This Vorberg would easily be one of the most impressive vintages of the 00's, were it not for its rather low acidity, which makes the wine seem rather heavy and a bit flabby. As the wine is showing a remarkable cavalcade of more mature characteristics I can guess that the wine seems to both age and, eventually, deteriorate faster than the more acid-driven vintages. Though this 2004 has still some life left ahead, I suggest it to be drunk sooner rather than later.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2003
- Tasted on: September 30th, 2015
Modestly pale lemon yellow color with fain green highlights. Rich, ripe and succulent nose with intense aromas of apricot, dried peach, some sweet fruit candy aromas and a hint of floral complexity. Full-bodied palate with rather modest acidity and velvety texture. Quite mineral-driven palate with ripe and moderately sweet flavors of red apple, peach, bitter stony minerality, some yellow plum notes and mature, slightly smoky and nutty nuances. The acidity does not really cut through the body that seems to have concentrated with age, but it gives the wine some sense of structure. Vibrant, succulent and very persistent finish with complex, long-lingering nuances of juicy peach, tangerine, ripe red apple, some wet stone minerality and a hint of almond paste.
93/100
Summary: Stylistically very close to the 2004 vintage with rather low acidity and plump body, but the 2003 seems to show a bit more depth, complexity and structure than the 2004. Furthermore, it seems also slightly younger and more balanced, giving it better cellaring potential. No need to hurry with this one.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2002
- Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Deep golden yellow. Ripe, concentrated and developed nose with a plethora of mature nuances: dried pineapple, wizened peach, roasted nuts, some smoke and a hint of caramelized ginger. The nose leads to expect something concentrated and voluminous, but the wine is actually surprisingly light on its feet with medium body at most and high, structured acidity. Surprisingly dry and even crisp flavors for a Vorberg of this age with flavors of mature nuttiness, smoke and some complex spices, quite pronounced, stony minerality, some sweet yellow apple, a little honeydew melon and a hint of florals. Long, mineral finish with dry, refreshing flavors of ripe citrus fruits, tart Granny Smith apple, wet stones, some waxy notes and a hint of honey.
93/100
Summary: A more delicate and lighter expression, like the vintage 2007, but with more depth, complexity and precision. I really enjoyed this one with it refreshing character, even crisp at times, marrying more developed notes with lighter, drier and more acid-driven fruit characteristics. Starting to drink really nicely now, but has years of life still left with potential to kick up its score a notch or two.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 2001
- Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Deep golden yellow. A bit closed and reticent nose with developed, and even slightly dusty aromas of spicy wildhoney, dried pear slices, walnuts, some ripe green fruits and a hint of hay. Moderately aged and rather full-bodied palate with good, refreshing acidity and complex flavors of honey and spicy wildhoney, stony minerality, tart green apple, roasted nuts, almond paste, some aromatic herbs, hay notes and a hint of oxidative biscuit. Very long, rich and persistent finish with complex, mature flavors spice and wildhoney, yellow plums, some roasted almonds and a hint of hay.
92/100
Summary: A really attractive, fully mature Vorberg that has obviously reached its plateau of maturity and most likely won't keep much longer. Though there is some sense of concentrationg brought by age, the wine is remarkably fresh and structured with a lot of vibrancy and precision. However, the wine won't most likely gain any additional complexity with further cellaring, so I'd suggest drinking up.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 2000
- Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Medium golden yellow, a bit more pale than the two previous vintages, with faint green highlights. Surprisingly youthful, fruit-forward and refreshing nose with vibrant aromas of yellow stone fruits, honeydew melon, star fruit, some sweet pear marmalade and a hint of developed smoky complexity. Waxy, medium-bodied palate that is all about balance; the flavors are not young anymore, yet the wine doesn't seem to offer any mature characteristics either. The wine is bursting with ripe flavors of mirabelle plums, star fruit, pronounced spiciness, stony minerality, ripe apple, some honey and hints of sweet white peach. Though the acidity is not pronounced, it is still rather high, giving the wine good sense of structure. Finally the wine turns to its very long, spicy and acid-driven finish with ripe fruit flavors of yellow plums and apples, some orange and a hint of star fruit. The only giveaway of the wine's age is the light nutty complexity that appears towards the end of the aftertaste.
94/100
Summary: A superb vintage of Vorberg, that is still barely halfway up – the wine is still so youthful and energetic it's hard to understand it has 15 years under its belt! Probably hitting its stride 5–10 years from now, so it would be a shame opening this now. Lots of room left for further improvement.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1999
- Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Rather pale yellow-green color; by its looks, this is something completely different from the previous, golden yellow wines. Quite rich and obviously mature nose with toasty aromas of roasted nuts, smoke, peach, dried pineapple, some orange marmalade, a hint of complex, aged spiciness and a faint, grassy, vegetal note. Surprisingly light, zippy and bright palate with light-to-medium body and pronounced acidity. Almost atypical flavors of green apples, grassy greenness, lemony citrus, walnuts, wet stone minerality, some sweeter notes of nougat and a hint of star fruit. Bright and refreshing finish with almost crisp flavors of green apple, ripe citrus fruits, something green, stony minerality, a little creaminess and a hint of herbal bitterness.
92/100
Summary: One of those lighter vintages of Vorberg with very different aroma- and taste profile from the usual Vorberg style – light in body, high in acidity and faint nuances of grass and other greenish vegetal notes. However, the wine is also really attractive and sophisticated with more youthful palate than what the rather mature nose leads to expect. Still cellarworthy for a good number of years, although drinking nicely already.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1998
- Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Concentrated honey yellow color. Very complex, mature nose with layered aromas of yellow plums, pear marmalade, intriguing waxy notes, gummy bears, orange-flavored hard candy, some dried mushroom, a little cream, hints of basil and a whiff of dried straws. Developed dry, medium-bodied palate with dense, concentrated flavors of nuts, yellow apple, hay, some wet stone minerality, notes of dried apricots, a little apple peel bitterness and oxidized nuances of browned apple core and toasty biscuit. Good, refreshing and structured acidity. Quite long, juicy and developed finish with layered nuances of smoke, spicy matured notes, nuts, some bruised apple and hints of tart lemon.
93/100
Summary: This one is definitely peaking now. Very mature characteristics with concentrated palate that seems to have also shed its baby fat – there is no excess ripeness or fruit, but only the linear core with good, structured acidity, balanced minerality and complex, layered tertiary flavors. Not really powerful, but still shows some lovely intensity. Not in need of further cellaring.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1997
- Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Medium-deep lemon yellow color with pale green hues. Very restrained and delicate nose showing some developed, autumnal notes of earth, porcini mushrooms and sous bois, with sweeter aromas of pear marmalade and honey beneath. Full-bodied and quite bitter palate with modest-to-low acidity. Concentrated flavors of honey, ripe yellow apple, dried peach and some nutty toasted aromas with very pronounced quinine mineral bitterness. Due to the low acidity the wine comes across a bit flatter than the other vintages. Succulent, ripe and quite long finish with flavors of peach, herbal bitterness, alpine minerality, some citrus fruits and a hint of nuttiness.
91/100
Summary: Another fully mature Vorberg; though the wine still has quite much life left, it has not withstood the age as good as the other vintages. Either the vintage has been a very low-acid one, or the sense of acidity has diminished over time; whatever the case, the wine seems a bit dull and lacking in brightness. Peaking now, better to drink soon.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1996
- Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Luminous, greenish pale yellow color. Paradoxically both very mature and surprisingly youthful nose with aromas of smoke, wizened stone fruits, some earthy mushroom notes, a little nuttiness and a hint of leather, with bright aromas of ripe peach, fresh red apple, some pineapple and hints of minty herbs giving an interesting counterpoint. In the mouth the wine is medium-bodied, incredibly youthful, full of vigor and power and almost crisp with its remarkably high acidity. Intense flavors of yellow and green apples, steely minerality, green herbs, sweet citrus fruits, some spiciness and hints of nutty and toasty maturity. Very youthful and vibrant finish with crisp flavors of green apples, dried aromatic herbs, ripe citrus fruits, steely minerality and something grassy, with only faint hints of developed dried fruit character.
95/100
Summary: Boy oh boy! Even at the age of 20, this wine is still a baby! Incredible structure, power and intensity with fruit that hasn't aged at all: this seems to be a white wine that will hold forever. This is like a young Vorberg, only with that depth and sense of concentration a wine gains with age, and without that ripe-fruity baby fat. Really impressive stuff, no point opening this in a while. Probably will develop much more with time.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1995
- Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Luminous, medium-deep lemon yellow color with green highlights. Restrained, quite dry and steely nose with an air of coolness; very complex aromas of steely minerality, sweet red apple, mature nuttiness, apricot, a bit of waxiness, some developed dusty and earthy notes, even a bit of pickled mushrooms, nuances of grass and a whiff smoke. Moderately full-bodied, intense and vibrant palate with high acidity giving the wine impressive structure and brightness. Lively, layered flavors of beeswax, yellow apples, mirabelle plums, stony minerality, some cream, a little white peppery spice, hints of almonds and a touch of smoke. Slightly oily mouthfeel, yet very tightly wound and almost nervous structure. Incredibly persistent, complex finish with creamy flavors of mirabelle plums, ripe yellow apples, stony minerality, some nuttiness, hints of honeydew melon and a touch of bitter herbal notes.
96/100
Summary: Simply stunning. Probably the most impressive Vorberg I've ever had. An incredible combination of powerful, even youthful fruit, more developed, nutty notes and remarkable, acid-driven structure. Though the wine exhibits a bit more mature characteristics than the Vorberg 1996, this wine seems also very youthful; not only will this still keep in a cellar for years, even decades, but almost feels like it still needs some years to resolve its tightly wound structure. Might be that in the end the vintage 1996 takes the lead, but now this vintage is showing more beautifully. One of the most spectacular whites I've ever had.
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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1994
- Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Luminous, deep golden yellow – something not unlike an aged dessert wine. Rich, concentrated bouquet with a lot of maturity and opulence. Complex, developed aromas of wizened yellow stone fruits, succulent peachy fruit, toasty, oxidative nuttiness, some creamy notes, a little earthy mushroom, hints of honey and caramel and a whiff of butter. Very rich, full-bodied and almost chewy palate with moderately high acidity and good, steely mineral brightness. Layered flavors of cream, roasted nuts, smoke, mirabelle plums, some bitter herbal notes, a little stony minerality and a hint of dried pineapple. Extremely persistent, intense and complex finish with aged, constantly evolving flavors of smoke, mirabelle plums, vanilla, cream, tangerine, yellow apple, sweet apple jam, steely and stony minerality and a hint of nuttiness.
95/100
Summary: A fantastic example of an aged Vorberg drinking more than beautifully right now. Not as youthful as the two previous vintages, but still full of life; probably won't develop much further, but will keep still for years, easily. One of the best Vorbergs I've tasted. Really lovely.
***
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| 2002–1994 |
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| 2003–2012 |
Apparently Vorberg Riservas require prolonged cellaring before they start showing beautifully. When young, they can be really rich, opulent and impressive wines in their own right, but nothing of true interest. At around 10 years of age they start exhibiting first developed notes and around 15 years of age they start shedding their baby fat – they don't appear as full-bodied and opulent as the younger wines, but they still retain their ripe, concentrated fruit and impressive weight. On average it seems that the poorer vintages survive around 10–15 years, better ones easily at least 20, even more. With the best vintages, I have no idea how long they will keep, as the most impressive ones seemed still remarkably young and tightly wound even at 20 years of age. I guess it's safe to declare that the best vintages of Vorberg Riserva are semi-eternal white wines that only gain depth and complexity, but they just don't seem to age.
In a nutshell, Cantina Terlano's Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva is not only the world's best Pinot Blanc white wine, but also one of the most spectacular white wines, no matter the varietal, with aging capability on par with the best dry German Rieslings or white Burgundies. This is truly a white wine to look for.
