Showing posts with label 2000. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2000. Show all posts

July 4, 2017

Vertical of the month: Château Musar 2000-2009

As my Vertical of the Month post on white Musar proved to be such a popular piece, it wasn't hard to decide writing a similar post on red Musar as well. However, I wanted a more concise theme this time so I decided on concentrating solely on the vintages of the 00's instead of a huge post on every red Musar I had tasted. The problem was that the belated vintage 2006 was yet to hit the market. However, in the late March 2017 the 2006 Musars finally arrived to the market, so all I needed to do was to acquire a bottle, taste it and write a piece on the 10 first Musars of this millennium. It took me a few more months to do this arduous task, but here we finally are.

Our lineup from 28th of May, 2016
Lebanese Château Musar (often written without the circumflex as Chateau Musar) is by far the best-known winery in the Levant and also among the best-known wineries in the natural wine movement. Unlike so many wineries of the modern natural wine movement who have started to produce wines more naturally around or after the turn of the millennium, Château Musar has produced their wines with minimal intervention since 1977, predating the vast majority of natural wine producers by a decade or a lot more. The method of production is quite simple at Château Musar: the grapes are crushed and left to ferment on the natural yeasts. No yeast inoculations, nutrients or other additives are used and the use of sulfur is kept at minimum, letting the nature go its course without winemaker's manipulation. The resulting wines are very often rustic and exhibiting characteristics like brettanomyces or pronounced volatile acidity – traits often considered as unwanted, even faults – yet also remarkably balanced and capable of aging easily for decades.

Chateau Musar is the top tier of the winery's range, above the simple, early-drinking Musar Jeune range and the single-vineyard Hochar Pére et Fils. Out of the wines in the Chateau Musar range, the red one comprises the great majority of production (from a third to almost half of the winery's total production of some 700–800,000 bottles), whereas the white's production normally hovers around the 10–30,000 bottle mark . The rosé is by far the rarest wine in the Chateau Musar range as it is not made every year – and in those years when it is made, the amount of bottles produced is only some thousands.

What is remarkable in Musar wines is that they have always been produced in a geopolitically highly volatile area, where tensions and shoot-outs are not uncommon. Despite these difficulties, the wines were produced systematically even during the Lebanese civil war (1975–1990), when tensions were at their highest and bombshells were exploding all the way from Beirut, where the winery is located, to Beqaa valley, where the vineyards lie, and even in the vineyards. However, occasionally the grapes could not be transported directly via roads (some 70 km / 45 miles) from the Beqaa valley to the winery due to the unstable situations; in some cases the grapes had to be transported by taking a longer (250 km / 150 miles) detour, and once even by driving to the seaside and shipping them from port to port. Against all odds, there have been only two vintages that have not been released to this date:
  • The vintage of 1976 was lost due to the civil war: unstable situations prevented the workers to reach the vineyards and the crop was lost.
  • The vintage of 1984 was made, but there were great difficulties reaching the vineyards and transporting the fruit back to the winery – as it was impossible to reach the winery by land due to roads being closed, it was necessary to ship the fruit by sea. Due to this, the grapes were very overripe and started fermenting on their own before the winery was reached. The wine was practically undrinkable due to heavy flaws for years, even decades, but recent tastings have confirmed that the wine has changed into something remarkable after having been cellared for more than 30 years. The wine, however, still remains unreleased at the time of writing.

If you are interested on reading more in-depth introduction to the history and philosophy of Château Musar, I highly suggest you to read my other Vertical of the Month on Musar Blanc 1991–2007.

Chateau Musar
  • Château Musar
  • Country: Lebanon
  • Region: Beqaa
  • Grape(s): Cabernet Sauvignon (1/3), Carignan (1/3), Cinsaut (1/3)






The red Musar is the wine this winery is best known for. It is traditionally a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsaut in more or less equal proportions, left to ferment in cement tanks on indigenous yeasts. After the fermentation, the wine is aged for 1 year in oak barrels (approx. 25–35% new), after which the wine is normally blended together and then returned back to marry in the concrete vats. After a suitable period of aging (1–2 years) the wine blend is bottled without any fining or filtration. What makes this wine so unique is that according to the winery's philosophy it is not released until the winery deems it ready, a process which normally takes 7–10 years – the vintage 2006 was released only after the vintage 2009, after more than ten years of aging! Furthermore, Musar normally keeps up to 25% of the annual production stored in their cellars for later release.

Chateau Musar 2009
  • Price: 35,70€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 20th of January, 2017

The 2009 vintage was particularly good, remaining quite dry through the whole growing season and keeping all the difficulties at bay. The only particularly wet moment before the harvest was in the late March, giving the vines much-needed water after the dry first three months. Due to the hot summer, the harvest was brought on exceptionally early, starting on the 2nd of September with Cabernet Sauvignon and finishing on the 8th of September with Cinsaut. The wines were blended together only after 3 years of aging. 14% alcohol.

The color seems rather concentrated with dark, almost black red color showing only very little translucency. There are initial aromas of ripe, sunny fruit and lighter, sweeter VA notes of nail polish on the nose, with more subtle notes of very dark forest berries, some raisined fruit, a little hint of sweet oak spice and a touch of Assam tea. On the palate this full-bodied wine feels very youthful, quite dry and rather fruit-forward with flavors of ripe red berries, exotic spices, some strawberry sweetness, light meaty notes and a hint of savory wood. The typical animal and barnyard notes of Musar are practically nonexistent and even the volatility feels quite restrained. There is a sense of firmness along with good structure resulting from the relatively noticeable tannins and moderately high acidity. The finish is opulent and juicy with ripe, plummy flavors of sunny dark and red fruits, some cassis notes, light Middle Eastern spice hints and a touch of dry, savory wood. The tannins give the sweet, supple finish some positive sense of grip and grit.

Lovely balance, structure and focus here. Although I often enjoy purity of fruit in wines, this vintage of Musar feels remarkably polished and fruit-forward, making me miss some of those more quirky characteristics of some of the older vintages.

92/100
Summary: Overall this is a really juicy and supple red Musar where the warm, sunny growing conditions are very obvious and which is lacking those rustic and funky notes typical of Musar. Nevertheless, the wine shows good aging potential and hopefully it will gain some more complexity and more interesting characteristics with age. Recommended, especially for cellaring.

***

Chateau Musar 2008
  • Price: 23,00€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 28th of May, 2016

The first few months of 2008 weren't particularly good with rain and snow, but after the late February no rains reached Beqaa for the rest of the season. The March was moderate followed by sunny spring, keeping the humidity (and the amount of weeds) very low. In mid-August a heat wave arrived, making the grapes reach maturity at the same moment, creating some logistical problems on the harvesting of grape varieties – normally the grapes mature at different times, so there is no need to worry whether some varieties would turn overripe while picking the others. Especially Cinsaut seemed to only benefit from the heat wave. The wines were blended together after 3 years of aging. 14% alcohol.

Youthful, dark, almost black cherry color with faint purple hues and moderate translucency. Lovely, complex and wild nose so typical of Musar: sweet volatile notes, rich kirsch-driven fruit, ripe and succulent red berries, sunny dark fruit, some acetone, a little prune and a hint of bretty funk. Very intense, structured and quite full-bodied palate with surprisingly concentrated flavors of ripe dark berries, toasted spices, some sweet plummy fruit, a little sour cherry and a hint of acetaldehyde salinity – all counterpointed by moderately pronounced bitterness. The wine is held together beautifully with moderate acidity and quite chewy, grainy tannins. The wine finishes on a moderately long, spicy and slightly bitter note with a bit of alcohol warmth and flavors of sour cherry, tart lingonberry and a hint of salinity in the aftertaste.

This vintage is a surprisingly concentrated and structured for a Musar, which is nice change after the weaker and somewhat disappointing 2007.

93/100
Summary: The wine feels very imposing with its brooding, dark-toned fruit and those typical volatile-and-funky Musar notes; although promising, it seems to be in a bit awkward phase right now. Currently it requires easily more than just 2 hours of decanting which we had; however, I recommend giving the wine at least a decade more before opening it. Very, very recommended; definitely one of the most promising Musars in a while with good possibility of hitting a much higher score with age.

***

Chateau Musar 2007
  • Price: 35,70€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016
2007 was an uneven vintage with a sudden spring frost disturbing the growth cycle, cloudy and rainy May preventing 30% of flowering and a three-week heat wave in August hastening the ripening process before the harvest. All the three grape varieties matured very quickly and at the same time, creating some logistical problems to and in the winery. 14% alcohol.

Quite opaque, dark cherry color with figgy purple overtones. Slightly reticent and quite dry nose with slight greenness that lacks the typical sweeter sunny fruit character of Musar; there are aromas of ripe red berries, slightly unripe blue- and blackberries, some vaguely off-putting, chemical VA aromas, a little bit of cedary wood and hints of raisined fruit. Medium-to-full-bodied on the palate, coming across as quite austere and tannic for a Musar. There are youthful, but more dry than sweet flavors of ripe dark fruit, juicy yet bitter red forest berries, some volatility and a hint of sour cherry. Although the acidity is modest at best, the wine seems both quite tightly wound and a bit muted, even backward. The rather pronounced bitterness gives the wine some sense of structure, but also emphasizes the tannins in a not altogether pleasant way. Quite long, bitter and complex finish with juicy flavors of ripe dark berries, peppery spice and some tannic astringency with a bit of alcohol heat.

This might be an enjoyable and drinkable Musar, but compared to the usual house style, the wine seems rather austere, unresolved and backward. Although I'm a big fan of Musar, this time it just doesn't make the cut. I am not sure whether the wine is in some very awkward phase, or if it is just an off vintage.

87/100
Summary: Definitely a hard fellow now in its youth, but also seeming to lack focus and balance: there is a lot of structure – especially tannin-wise – and also some pronounced bitterness, but very little fruit to balance them out. I hope that the wine is in an awkward phase and it will resolve beautifully, but it can be that this is just an off vintage and it will never turn out to be anything truly memorable. Quite good and interesting for a red wine, but a disappointment for a young Musar. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for the 2007's I have in my cellar.

***

Chateau Musar 2006
  • Price: 31,95€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 23rd of June, 2017

A very difficult vintage, but not that much because of the climatic conditions – which were remarkable by themselves, feeling like a never-ending spring with only 10 days of summer weather – but due to the conflict between Hezbollah and Israel. Although it seemed that there wouldn't be a harvest at all, everybody still carried on normally despite the volatile conditions and fortunately a ceasefire came before the harvest. However, unlike the vintages that normally feel ready to be released after 7 years of aging, this wine was still in shambles in 2013, which is why the winery decided to postpone the release for a year. And then another. And yet another. Finally, the wine was ready for release in the spring of 2017. 14% alcohol.

Somewhat translucent dark cherry color that doesn't look that youthful anymore, but doesn't betray the +10 years of age either. Quite opulent, ripe and juicy nose which isn't that funky, but showing some acetic VA notes along with aromas of very ripe plums, even prunes, overripe blackberries, some sun-baked earth and hints of raisined fruit. Full-bodied on the palate with moderately high acidity but rather mellow tannins. There are flavors of fresh blackberries, overripe dark plums, exotic spice, some blackcurrant jam and hints of acetic volatility. Although the wine tastes quite dry, notes of dried prunes and raisins create an illusion of sweetness, giving the wine more juiciness and rounding its corners. The finish is medium-long with supple flavors of ripe and sweet dark forest fruits, black cherries, some plums, a bit of tannic bitterness and hints of peppery spice. The acidity makes the wine finish on a more tart lingonberry note along with a lightly gritty tannic grip.

A vintage that was anticipated for a long time, but which ultimately fails to captivate upon release. The wine might be quite balanced and enjoyable, but it is also quite mellow and rather tame effort for a Musar with a surprisingly noticeable raisiny character, especially given the cooler vintage.

90/100
Summary: Overall this wine feels, quite surprisingly, like a lighter take on those very ripe, raisiny and high-alcohol Plavac Mali wines grown in the southern Croatia. This soon after release the wine doesn't feel a remarkable vintage, but neither is this a disappointment like the 2007. Perhaps – and hopefully – the wine will gain some welcome complexity with age.

***

Chateau Musar 2005
  • Price: 35,90€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016

Unlike in most European wine countries, the 2005 was an atypically cool and humid vintage in Lebanon, resulting in harvest delayed more than a week from normal schedule (the harvest of red varieties was finished on 18th of September) and with wines showing lower than average alcohol and higher acidity. 14% alcohol.

Slightly translucent dark cherry color. Opulent, complex and ever so slightly volatile nose with lovely richness. Sweet, sunny aromas of plummy fruit, ripe figs, lilac, some red cherry, mature floral nuances, a little acetone VA and a touch of funky brett – although the succulent fruit tends to drown out the bretty barnyard character. Supple, full-bodied palate with good tannin structure and balanced, moderately high acidity. Ripe, succulent flavors of ripe plums, sweet figs, some rustic, bretty character, a little sun-baked earth, hints of jammy dark-skinned berries and a touch of dried prunes and raisins. Surprisingly robust and bold effort for a Musar, yet with fruit and body to match. Long and complex finish with a bit rustic and slightly astringent aftertaste of leather, bitter spices, ripe plummy fruit, some dried dark berries and a hint of bretty barnyard notes.

Overall 2005 feels a remarkable vintage for a red Musar (and white as well) resulting in a stunning combination of robust structure of both acidity and tannins and ripe, succulent fruit.

95/100
Summary: Lacking the finesse and delicate balance of the finer vintages, the red 2005 is all about power, intensity and – above all – cellaring potential. With fruit, body and structure as remarkable as these, I have no doubts that the wine wouldn't survive at least a quarter of a century in a good wine cellar. Drinking this wine now would be a travesty – try to get this stuff as many as you can and open the first one only after a decade. It will be worthwhile.

***

Chateau Musar 2004
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016

A very cool vintage: snow didn't melt until March, spring lasted until June and the ripening period was slowed down by constant cooler breezes. The grapes never developed much acidity and the first grapes arriving to the winery were rather low in sugar as well. However, a two-week heat wave that arrived during the harvest boosted the sugar levels in the remaining grapes. The wine was made in the traditional method: 9 months of aging in cement vats, 1 year in oak barrels, blending and maturation for 9 months in cement vats, finished with bottling and extended bottle aging before release. 14% alcohol.

Almost black cherry color with slightly maroon rim and only a little translucency. Ripe and sunny yet a bit understated nose with a bit sweet aromas of crushed ripe forest berries, some succulent plummy fruit and a hint of car paint volatility. Moderately full-bodied and velvety palate with soft medium acidity. Rich, opulent flavors of sweet dark cherries, dark-skinned berries, some kirsch and a hint of acetic volatility. Moderately tannic, but still showing suave smoothness without any coarse character. Long, complex and a bit grippy finish with quite light flavors of peppery spice and allspice and turmeric, ripe dark cherry, some tart lingonberry, alittle bit of sour cherry bitterness and a hint of dusty earthiness.

A smooth and classy Musar with hints of sweetness and less emphasis on the tannic structure. Shows hints of volatility, but is far from the funkiest end of Musars.

91/100
Summary: Not as open and expressive as many vintages before and after this, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing; also, the wine seems to have resolved from the clunky phase it was earlier this year (January 2016). Drinking nicely now, will keep easily for many years. Not the most typical Musar with its sweet, fruit-forward character and rather low acidity, but still very beautiful. Recommended.

***

Chateau Musar 2003
  • Price: 31,40€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 15th of February, 2013

The winter of 2003 was the rainiest in 15 years in Beqaa, but after April, no rain fell. A long heat wave in May decreased yields by 30%, concentrating the acidity and sugar levels in the remaining grapes substantially. However, July and August were cooler than normal, delaying the ripening process. Still, the harvest was carried out by normal schedule. The maceration was carried out over 3 weeks with maceration, resulting in firm, structured wines. The wines were aged for 9 months in cement vats, 12 months in Nevers oak barrels, blended together and matured for a further 6 months in cement vats before bottling. First released in 2010. 14% alcohol.

Quite translucent, dark ruby color with a slightly maroon hue. Very rich, expressive and aromatic nose with complex and even somewhat animal aromas of leather, tobacco, dried figs, wizened dark berries, some barnyard funk and a hint of sunny dark fruit. With some air, the bouquet gains also some nuances of floral perfume, licorice root and the faintest touch of cedar. The wine is quite rich, full-bodied and powerful on the palate with ripe, slightly sweet and intense flavors of sunny dark fruit, roasted spices, ripe red cherries, figs, some tobacco, a little sweaty saddle leather and a hint of cigar box. Though the flavors are quite sweet, overall the wine still tastes dry and relatively robust. The structure relies mainly on good, bright acidity, as the ample but fine tannins are rather mellow and friendly, giving the wine more sense of firmness than noticeable grip. Only the high-ish alcohol shows a little through. The finish is very long, complex and quite powerful with flavors of leather, cedar, dried figs, some dark chocolate chips, a hint of tobacco and a touch of rough animal funk.

This is truly a textbook example of a superb vintage Musar. Although starting to show some developed character at 10 years of age, this vintage has still a lot more to go before reaching its peak. At only 31,40€ this wine shows incredible value.

95/100
Summary: Even by Musar standards this vintage shines above its peers, being an incredibly attractive, complex and elegant effort. Not challenging by any means, but still showing quite much of that hallmark funk of the house – although this was not overtly dirty or super-volatile, it showed more of that attractive leathery and animal character than your average Musar. Still a baby with plenty of miles ahead, so no need to open this now – this'll age gracefully for decades.

***

Chateau Musar 2002
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016

In 2002 long, cold and rainy weather pushed the ends of the winter and the spring back, all the way into late June, followed by a mild July and, suddenly, hot August. The ripening process was delayed accordingly, the harvest starting two weeks behind the normal schedule, starting on 15th of September. The maturity of grapes was extremely varied from vineyard to vineyard, so instead of picking the varieties one by one, the harvest had to be done vineyard by vineyard, according to the maturity. The fermentation and maceration times were much longer than normal this year. After 6 months of aging in concrete vats, the wines were racked into oak barrels for one year. After the oak aging the wines were blended together and matured for a further year in oak casks before bottling. 14% alcohol.

Rather translucent, yet a bit hazy, dark cherry color with some orange bricking towards the rim. A bit restrained nose with delicate aromas of sweet, dark-skinned berries, figs, some car paint VA, something a little biscuity, a hint of plum marmalade and prunes with a whiff of powdery oak. Ripe, medium-bodied and surprisingly acid-driven palate with complex, savory flavors of ripe plummy fruit, dark-skinned forest berries, peppery, bitter spiciness, some aromatic and sweet clove spice, a little balsamic volatility and a hint of sweet red cherry. Quite soft and ripe but firm enough tannins. The lengthy finish carries the bitter, spicy note while turning the fruity notes into something more earthy and savory; along with the flavors of ripe and sweet dark-skinned berries, complex flavors of clove, funky brett, some sun-baked earth and hints of sweaty leather become more pronounced.

This vintage is a bit atypical for Musar, but still in a lovely way: the wine is not that open and expressive as some, yet still it shows lots of those typical, Musary notes of sunny fruit, animal, volatility and earth. It is actually surprisingly delicate and sophisticated in its expression compared to many other, more voluminous vintages with bigger fruit, yet still sporting a surprisingly pronounced wild-and-funky side as well.

92/100
Summary: Perhaps this is not a vintage that'll keep for several decades like the best ones – although I wouldn't be that surprised even if it actually did! At least the wine is not showing any real signs of maturity now, only some depth and complexity that the wine gains with bottle age, giving the wine good cellaring potential for at least a decade more. An attractive example of a more subtle expression of Musar.

***

Chateau Musar 2001
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016

A very hot and dry vintage: by mid-February the weather turned to much more warmer than usual with almost nonexistent rains. After relatively normal weather during the flowering, the weather turned hotter than normal for July and August, resulting in 15% reduction in yield. The harvest was carried ahead of the schedule, starting already on 3rd of September. The Cinsaut suffered from the hot weather, losing some of its color; thus, the percentage of Cinsaut is somewhat lower in this year's blend compared to other vintages. As normal, the wine was fermented and aged in cement vats for 9 months, aged in oak for 12 months, blended together and matured for a further year in cement vats before bottling. 13,5% alcohol.

Rather translucent dark cherry color with some orange bricking towards the almost clear rim. Lovely and attractive nose, with lovely depth and complexity – although the volatile acidity aromas so typical of Musar seem to be more pungent, chemical and glue-like instead of those sweeter, nuanced balsamico notes more typical of the house. Modestly developed aromas of savory dark berries, tart red berries, sunny dark fruit and some dark cherry with a little earthy sous-bois and a hint of dried, dusty leather. On the palate the wine is a lot sweeter, rich and suave than the nose suggests, with a supple, full body. Ripe, complex and dark-toned flavors of plummy fruit, aromatic spice, some fig, a little cherry, hints of leathery brett and a touch of paint thinner VA – intermingled with juicy, meaty notes. Moderately grippy, firm, dusty tannins and relatively high acidity give the wine good structure. Rich, quite robust and slightly grippy finish with savory flavors of ripe, dark-toned fruit, sour cherry, bitterness, some leather, a little salty acetaldehyde tang and a slightest touch of herbal greenness.

This is a delightful and surprisingly imposing – even somewhat brooding – vintage of Musar with surprisingly powerful structure and lots of depth and complexity but very little of that bretty barnyard funk.

93/100
Overall the 2001 does not seem as elegant and sophisticated as some vintages (some might consider calling a wine as wild and funky as Musar as "sophisticated" or "elegant" a travesty) with its roughness, occasionally slightly glue-like and more off-putting than attractive VA characteristics and slight greenness, but it still manages to hit many sweet spots with its combination of mature nuances and powerful, grippy character. Although starting to show some more developed notes, the structure seems quite unresolved even after 15 years – this is definitely a keeper with possibility for a higher score with more age. Tasty stuff now with right food, but a wine to be aged a lot more if enjoyed on its own. Very recommended.

***

Chateau Musar 2000
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016

A warm and dry summer with hot July and temperatures above average in August. Released in 2007, alcohol 13,5%.

Translucent, medium deep red color tending to maroon. Rather reticent and restrained, but also nicely matured and savory nose with aromas of cherry, roasted spices, pencil shavings, dusty sun-baked earth, some developed and wizened dark fruit, a hint of reductive gunpowder smoke and a whiff of bretty funk. Full-bodied, noticeably spicy and structured palate with moderately developed, ripe and savory flavors of dark forest fruits, ripe red cherry, sweet sunny fruit, aromatic spices, some dried fig, a little pipe tobacco and a hint of bitter, sour cherry. The midpalate has a slightly pungent, saline streak giving the wine a bright, aldehydic Fino Sherry-esque overtone, supported by moderately high acidity. The wine has firm, ripe and slightly grippy tannins, giving it sense of firmness and good structure. The long, complex and generous finish is full of layered, interweaving notes of roasted spices, bitter sour cherry, dark sunny fruit, some dusty earth and a hint of dried figs. In the end, there is a lovely, slightly saline acetaldehyde lift.

Somehow this vintage of Musar seems a bit difficult one with atypical smoky and saline notes, yet still the wine does not come across as awkward or clumsy, but very delightful and tasty. Although these atypical notes give the wine some unique complexity, they also distract a little bit from the honest Musary core of sunny dark fruit and nuanced, earthy tones. Additionally, this is one of the less bretty and volatile vintages, with almost none of those leathery, barnyardy and balsamico notes apparent.

91/100
Summary: A Musar that is starting to exhibit some aged complexity in addition to the primary, fruity characteristics. The wine will most likely keep for a good while, but I'm not 100% sure whether it'll keep for a decade more – structure-wise there is a lot of aging potential, but the wine seems to lack focus and I hope it will not start to fall apart with more age. Despite of its lack of typicity, still recommended. This is a good and enjoyable Musar, but not among the great vintages.

***

For long I had a mnemonic for Musar vintages that odd ones are the ones you want to keep and even ones the ones you'll probably want to skip. Not that you'd want to skip any vintage of Musar, but pushed to make a choice over two vintages, I'd go for an odd vintage.

However, 2007 and 2008 changed this pattern: having tasted the 2007 in three different occasions over a six-month time span I must admit, it has turned out to be a disappointment of sorts. 2008, on the contrary, was a really tightly-knit and promising one, feeling almost too young but still full of cellaring potential. Most likely both of them will get better with age, but I expect a lot more from 2008 than from 2007 now.

The vintages 2009 and 2006 that followed, in that order, followed the logic of my mnemonic; although not as impressive as the vintages 2003 or 2005 were, the 2009 was still more lush and opulent effort, whereas the 2006 felt a bit more restrained and underwhelming, true to the even-numbered vintage style – which was also a bit disappointing, seeing how every Musarophile was waiting for its release for more than three years after it wasn't released according to the normal release schedule of Musar.

Our lineup from 28th of January, 2016
All in all, I hope that this guide through a decade of Musars will be of some help if you ever come across of multiple vintages of Musars and you are pressed to choose only one or some among them. Overall the first 10 years of the 21st century seem to have produced some very attractive and delightful wines, practically all of them capable of surviving at least 10 years of cellaring, some of them even multiple decades. Only the vintage 2007 seems to be a bit of an underachiever now, but perhaps with some age it can turn out all right. Practically all the other vintages are more or less safe bets: some are drinking nicely now and some only after some years, even a decade in the cellar, but most of the wines are actually really lovely now yet they sport remarkable cellaring potential – true to the classic Musar style.

September 6, 2016

Vertical of the month: Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2012-1994

Pinot Blanc, that white mutation of the world-famous Pinot Noir, has never had much of attention nor following. And I am not blaming anybody for it – whereas Pinot Noir can mace delicate, immensely attractive and infinitely complex red wines capable of withstand decades of aging, Pinot Blanc normally seems capable of producing only simple, soft and fruity white wines redolent of peaches and ripe apples and never aging further than a handful of years.

However, this is not always the case. For example, the variety seems to thrive in the German region of Rheinhessen, where quality-oriented producers can make remarkable white wines of astounding depth, structure and opulence out of Pinot Blanc – or Weissburgunder (or Weisser Burgunder) as it is known there. But it might just be that there is no other winery making as astounding and ageworthy Pinot Blancs as Cantina Terlano, the small and well-respected co-operative from South Tyrol, Northern Italy.

Pinot Blanc originated from Burgundy as a white mutation of the Pinot Noir – apparently not only once, but several times during the history – but it was often confused with the other local variety, Chardonnay. From Burgundy, the variety first travelled to Alsace and Switzerland, and later on all over the world. Though cultivated in small quantities in a big number of wine-producing countries, Pinot Blanc has found its home especially in Alsace, Luxembourg, Germany, Italy and Slovakia. In Alsace and Slovakia (where the variety is known as Rulandské Bílé) the variety is normally seen as a simple workhorse variety – mainly for making simple and inexpensive everyday wines. In Germany and Luxembourg many producers have realized the variety's potential, producing more impressive, structured and complex wines than the neighboring Alsace.

But what makes the aforementioned Cantina Terlano so unique is that so often Italian Pinot Bianco (the local synonym for Pinot Blanc) offers nothing of interest: the vines are usually planted in locations poorly suited to the variety, resulting wines that are either thin and neutral (if picked too early) or just simple, fruity and lacking structure (if picked ripe). This is why I was a little hesitant when I was invited to a two-day vertical of Pinot Bianco Vorberg. However, I didn't need much time convincing myself on going, remembering the reputation of winery in question and the few wines I had tasted from them.

Cantina Terlano, or Kellerei Terlan, is a co-operative founded by 24 South-Tyrol winegrowers in 1893. Unlike many other producers in Südtirol / Alto Adige (the local names for the bilingual region), that are often large and quantity-oriented, Cantina Terlano is a relatively small producer with 160 hectares (400 acres) and their main focus is on long-lived quality wines, result of severe reduction of yields, rigorous selection of the healthy grapes and keen winemaking utilizing old, large wooden barrels and extended sur lie aging. The co-op currently has 120 members, which means that the average holding for one grower is a little less than 1,5 ha.

Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva
DOC Südtirol / Alto Adige
  • Cantina Terlano / Kelleri Terlan
  • Country: Italy
  • Region: Trentino - Südtirol / Alto Adige, Alto Adige
  • Grape(s): Pinot Bianco (100%)





Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva (or just plain Pinot Bianco Vorberg until 2001) is one Cantina Terlano's flagship wines and considered to be one of the best (if not the best) Pinot Blanc wines in the world. Vorberg is a region of steep, south-to-southwest-facing vineyards at the altitudes between 450 and 950 meters above the sea level. In these vineyards grow the most concentrated and structured Pinot Bianco grapes of Cantina Terlano and from these grapes they make their spectacular varietal riserva wine. The wines are slowly fermented in old 3,000 liter oak casks, and after the fermentation the wines are left to age on the yeast lees (sur lie aging) in the same barrels for 12 months. The annual production is around 55,000 bottles.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2012
  • Tasted on: September 30th, 2015
Pale lime-green color. Cool, alpine and somewhat restrained nose with cool aromas of yellow apple, wet stones and hints of citrus fruit. In the mouth the wine has a lot more weight with goods sense of richness and concentration. Intense flavors of juicy peach, ripe apple, some prickly mineral bitterness and a hint of pineapple. Despite its size the wine feels firm and structured, thanks both to bright minerality and high acidity. Slightly ripe-sweet, medium-length finish with succulent yellow stone fruits, stony minerality and a hint of herbal bitterness.

89/100
Summary: An intense, structured Pinot Blanc with a lot more depth and concentration than its peers from Alsace. However, lacks the complexity and impressiveness the best German Weissburgunders show.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2011
  • Tasted on: September 30th, 2015
Pale lime-green color. Ripe, fruity nose showing peach-driven aromas of yellow stone fruits and some honeyed sense of maturity. Rich, lively and full-bodied palate but with surprisingly restrained flavor profile. The taste seems playful, but with fruit in the background and leaving very little on the fore; youthful flavors of apple and vague citrus fruits. With the lack of fruit, the high acidity feels a bit pronounced. Long, vibrant and more nuanced finish with ripe yellow fruit flavors, high acidity, some stony minerality and a hint of salinity.

87/100
Summary: A very restrained example of Vorberg Riserva; this vintage seemed almost austere compared to the rest of the wines. Might be that the wine is just in a dumb phase. A good Pinot Blanc, but nothing really memorable.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2009
  • Tasted on September 30th, 2015
A hot vintage. Pale lime-green color with faint lemony yellow highlights. A little restrained, cool nose with aromas of sweet lemony citrus fruits and orange blossom, some vague yellow fruit, a hint of almonds and a whiff of apricot marmalade. Rich, full-bodied and concentrated palate with moderate acidity that seems to grow from underneath the succulent fruit flavors. Intense, opulent flavors of pineapple, ripe peach, some red apple and a hint of bitterness. Despite its opulence, there is definite sense of structure. The finish is as full-bodied and succulent as the midpalate, but along with flavors of sweet apple, peach and apricot, there are more pronounced notes of bitter minerality and herbs.

90/100
Summary: Although this is obviously a very big and ripe, even massive, Pinot Blanc, the 2009 vintage shows good, balanced structure. The wine is starting to show first signs of maturity, but it will definitely hold for years – if not for decades – in a cellar. Shows a lot of promise, but does not offer much else than big body and ripeness at the moment.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2008
  • Tasted on September 30th, 2015
Moderately deep yellow-green color showing a hint of age. Very rich, complex and modestly developed nose with layered aromas of sweet, exotic fruits, yellow stone fruits, ripe yellow apple, some dried apricot, honeyed dessert wine nuances and a hint of vanillin. Quite full-bodied, intense and acid-driven – even a bit robust – in the mouth with powerful, concentrated flavors of ripe citrus fruits, wet rock minerality, almost ripe peaches and some green herbal nuances. The wine has impressive, almost tightly-wound structure. Though rich and opulent, the finish is also very powerful and structured with pronounced, long-lingering flavors of apricot, stony minerality, complex spice and some apple purée.

94/100
Summary: Out of the more recent vintages, the 2008 is easily the most impressive effort with a stunning combination of focused power and ripe, opulent fruit. The wine is starting to show some mature complexity, but the emphasis is on ripe, youthful fruit and the wine still has cellaring potential worth a decade or two left in it. Striking.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2007
  • Tasted on September 30th, 2015
Medium-deep yellow-green color; a bit lighter than the 2008. The nose is surprisingly dry and restrained in character with aromas of steel, sweet apple, some nuttiness and a hint of bready oxidation – is the wine already past its peak? In the mouth the wine is quite light-bodied and more dry and ripe-sweet, with intense, high-acid structure. Powerful flavors of ripe red apple, peach, some lemon marmalade and hints of apple jam that show some sense of concentration. Long, vibrant and quite dry finish with more emphasis on freshness and acidity than on ripeness and opulence; flavors of citrus fruits, ripe apple, spicy minerality and some mouth-drying sense of astringency in the aftertaste.

91/100
Summary: A lot lighter and more restrained style of Vorberg here with less ripeness and more emphasis on acidity and fresh fruit flavors. Still in pristine condition, although the nose suggested otherwise; however, I'd wager this vintage will not hold as long as the bigger. Wonderful now and still has some room for further development in the cellar.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2005
Tasted on September 30th, 2015
Intense golden yellow color. Ripe and complex, but slightly muted nose with aromas of dried yellow fruits, some dried aromatic herbs, a little smoky nuttiness and a hint of bready oxidation. Full-bodied and moderately concentrated palate with somewhat developed flavors of ripe, succulent pear, dried yellow fruits, some spicy bitterness, sweet tangerine notes and a hint of caramel. Moderately long, lively and complex finish showing both some sweetness and freshness with bright acidity and layered flavors of lemony citrus fruits, lemon marmalade, some wizened apricot and a hint of nuttiness.

93/100
Summary: Really lovely and attractive example of a 10-years old Vorberg that is balancing nicely with some remnants of primary fruit, more concentrated fruit flavors and more developed, non-fruit tertiary notes. This wine is starting to show why one should keep Vorbergs in a cellar for years before opening them; it's just beginning to drink nicely. Will probably develop nicely over some years and will definitely keep at least for another decade.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2004
  • Tasted on September 30th, 2015
Deep canary yellow color. Complex, layered bouquet redolent of developed nuances; aromas of old dry wood, powerful mirabelle plum fruit, developed spicy notes, some smoke, nuances of ripe and sweet yellow stone fruits, a little wizened apricot and a whiff of dried flowers. The wine is full in body with quite modest acidity and ample, sweet and developed fruit flavors. Notes of ripe citrus fruits, apricot, yellow plum marmalade, complex floral nuances, some stony minerality, aromatic herbal notes and a touch of lanolin waxiness. With its sense of maturity, silky texture and rather low acidity, the wine feels very smooth and restful in the mouth. The finish is very powerful, opulent and extremely lengthy with layered, intermingling nuances of yellow apple, peach, some stony minerality, a little honeyed florals and a touch of almonds.

92/100
Summary: This Vorberg would easily be one of the most impressive vintages of the 00's, were it not for its rather low acidity, which makes the wine seem rather heavy and a bit flabby. As the wine is showing a remarkable cavalcade of more mature characteristics I can guess that the wine seems to both age and, eventually, deteriorate faster than the more acid-driven vintages. Though this 2004 has still some life left ahead, I suggest it to be drunk sooner rather than later.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2003
  • Tasted on: September 30th, 2015
Modestly pale lemon yellow color with fain green highlights. Rich, ripe and succulent nose with intense aromas of apricot, dried peach, some sweet fruit candy aromas and a hint of floral complexity. Full-bodied palate with rather modest acidity and velvety texture. Quite mineral-driven palate with ripe and moderately sweet flavors of red apple, peach, bitter stony minerality, some yellow plum notes and mature, slightly smoky and nutty nuances. The acidity does not really cut through the body that seems to have concentrated with age, but it gives the wine some sense of structure. Vibrant, succulent and very persistent finish with complex, long-lingering nuances of juicy peach, tangerine, ripe red apple, some wet stone minerality and a hint of almond paste.

93/100
Summary: Stylistically very close to the 2004 vintage with rather low acidity and plump body, but the 2003 seems to show a bit more depth, complexity and structure than the 2004. Furthermore, it seems also slightly younger and more balanced, giving it better cellaring potential. No need to hurry with this one.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2002
  • Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Deep golden yellow. Ripe, concentrated and developed nose with a plethora of mature nuances: dried pineapple, wizened peach, roasted nuts, some smoke and a hint of caramelized ginger. The nose leads to expect something concentrated and voluminous, but the wine is actually surprisingly light on its feet with medium body at most and high, structured acidity. Surprisingly dry and even crisp flavors for a Vorberg of this age with flavors of mature nuttiness, smoke and some complex spices, quite pronounced, stony minerality, some sweet yellow apple, a little honeydew melon and a hint of florals. Long, mineral finish with dry, refreshing flavors of ripe citrus fruits, tart Granny Smith apple, wet stones, some waxy notes and a hint of honey.

93/100
Summary: A more delicate and lighter expression, like the vintage 2007, but with more depth, complexity and precision. I really enjoyed this one with it refreshing character, even crisp at times, marrying more developed notes with lighter, drier and more acid-driven fruit characteristics. Starting to drink really nicely now, but has years of life still left with potential to kick up its score a notch or two.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 2001
  • Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Deep golden yellow. A bit closed and reticent nose with developed, and even slightly dusty aromas of spicy wildhoney, dried pear slices, walnuts, some ripe green fruits and a hint of hay. Moderately aged and rather full-bodied palate with good, refreshing acidity and complex flavors of honey and spicy wildhoney, stony minerality, tart green apple, roasted nuts, almond paste, some aromatic herbs, hay notes and a hint of oxidative biscuit. Very long, rich and persistent finish with complex, mature flavors spice and wildhoney, yellow plums, some roasted almonds and a hint of hay.

92/100
Summary: A really attractive, fully mature Vorberg that has obviously reached its plateau of maturity and most likely won't keep much longer. Though there is some sense of concentrationg brought by age, the wine is remarkably fresh and structured with a lot of vibrancy and precision. However, the wine won't most likely gain any additional complexity with further cellaring, so I'd suggest drinking up.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 2000
  • Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Medium golden yellow, a bit more pale than the two previous vintages, with faint green highlights. Surprisingly youthful, fruit-forward and refreshing nose with vibrant aromas of yellow stone fruits, honeydew melon, star fruit, some sweet pear marmalade and a hint of developed smoky complexity. Waxy, medium-bodied palate that is all about balance; the flavors are not young anymore, yet the wine doesn't seem to offer any mature characteristics either. The wine is bursting with ripe flavors of mirabelle plums, star fruit, pronounced spiciness, stony minerality, ripe apple, some honey and hints of sweet white peach. Though the acidity is not pronounced, it is still rather high, giving the wine good sense of structure. Finally the wine turns to its very long, spicy and acid-driven finish with ripe fruit flavors of yellow plums and apples, some orange and a hint of star fruit. The only giveaway of the wine's age is the light nutty complexity that appears towards the end of the aftertaste.

94/100
Summary: A superb vintage of Vorberg, that is still barely halfway up – the wine is still so youthful and energetic it's hard to understand it has 15 years under its belt! Probably hitting its stride 5–10 years from now, so it would be a shame opening this now. Lots of room left for further improvement.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1999
  • Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Rather pale yellow-green color; by its looks, this is something completely different from the previous, golden yellow wines. Quite rich and obviously mature nose with toasty aromas of roasted nuts, smoke, peach, dried pineapple, some orange marmalade, a hint of complex, aged spiciness and a faint, grassy, vegetal note. Surprisingly light, zippy and bright palate with light-to-medium body and pronounced acidity. Almost atypical flavors of green apples, grassy greenness, lemony citrus, walnuts, wet stone minerality, some sweeter notes of nougat and a hint of star fruit. Bright and refreshing finish with almost crisp flavors of green apple, ripe citrus fruits, something green, stony minerality, a little creaminess and a hint of herbal bitterness.

92/100
Summary: One of those lighter vintages of Vorberg with very different aroma- and taste profile from the usual Vorberg style – light in body, high in acidity and faint nuances of grass and other greenish vegetal notes. However, the wine is also really attractive and sophisticated with more youthful palate than what the rather mature nose leads to expect. Still cellarworthy for a good number of years, although drinking nicely already.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1998
  • Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Concentrated honey yellow color. Very complex, mature nose with layered aromas of yellow plums, pear marmalade, intriguing waxy notes, gummy bears, orange-flavored hard candy, some dried mushroom, a little cream, hints of basil and a whiff of dried straws. Developed dry, medium-bodied palate with dense, concentrated flavors of nuts, yellow apple, hay, some wet stone minerality, notes of dried apricots, a little apple peel bitterness and oxidized nuances of browned apple core and toasty biscuit. Good, refreshing and structured acidity. Quite long, juicy and developed finish with layered nuances of smoke, spicy matured notes, nuts, some bruised apple and hints of tart lemon.

93/100
Summary: This one is definitely peaking now. Very mature characteristics with concentrated palate that seems to have also shed its baby fat – there is no excess ripeness or fruit, but only the linear core with good, structured acidity, balanced minerality and complex, layered tertiary flavors. Not really powerful, but still shows some lovely intensity. Not in need of further cellaring.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1997
  • Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Medium-deep lemon yellow color with pale green hues. Very restrained and delicate nose showing some developed, autumnal notes of earth, porcini mushrooms and sous bois, with sweeter aromas of pear marmalade and honey beneath. Full-bodied and quite bitter palate with modest-to-low acidity. Concentrated flavors of honey, ripe yellow apple, dried peach and some nutty toasted aromas with very pronounced quinine mineral bitterness. Due to the low acidity the wine comes across a bit flatter than the other vintages. Succulent, ripe and quite long finish with flavors of peach, herbal bitterness, alpine minerality, some citrus fruits and a hint of nuttiness.

91/100
Summary: Another fully mature Vorberg; though the wine still has quite much life left, it has not withstood the age as good as the other vintages. Either the vintage has been a very low-acid one, or the sense of acidity has diminished over time; whatever the case, the wine seems a bit dull and lacking in brightness. Peaking now, better to drink soon.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1996
  • Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Luminous, greenish pale yellow color. Paradoxically both very mature and surprisingly youthful nose with aromas of smoke, wizened stone fruits, some earthy mushroom notes, a little nuttiness and a hint of leather, with bright aromas of ripe peach, fresh red apple, some pineapple and hints of minty herbs giving an interesting counterpoint. In the mouth the wine is medium-bodied, incredibly youthful, full of vigor and power and almost crisp with its remarkably high acidity. Intense flavors of yellow and green apples, steely minerality, green herbs, sweet citrus fruits, some spiciness and hints of nutty and toasty maturity. Very youthful and vibrant finish with crisp flavors of green apples, dried aromatic herbs, ripe citrus fruits, steely minerality and something grassy, with only faint hints of developed dried fruit character.

95/100
Summary: Boy oh boy! Even at the age of 20, this wine is still a baby! Incredible structure, power and intensity with fruit that hasn't aged at all: this seems to be a white wine that will hold forever. This is like a young Vorberg, only with that depth and sense of concentration a wine gains with age, and without that ripe-fruity baby fat. Really impressive stuff, no point opening this in a while. Probably will develop much more with time.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1995
  • Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Luminous, medium-deep lemon yellow color with green highlights. Restrained, quite dry and steely nose with an air of coolness; very complex aromas of steely minerality, sweet red apple, mature nuttiness, apricot, a bit of waxiness, some developed dusty and earthy notes, even a bit of pickled mushrooms, nuances of grass and a whiff smoke. Moderately full-bodied, intense and vibrant palate with high acidity giving the wine impressive structure and brightness. Lively, layered flavors of beeswax, yellow apples, mirabelle plums, stony minerality, some cream, a little white peppery spice, hints of almonds and a touch of smoke. Slightly oily mouthfeel, yet very tightly wound and almost nervous structure. Incredibly persistent, complex finish with creamy flavors of mirabelle plums, ripe yellow apples, stony minerality, some nuttiness, hints of honeydew melon and a touch of bitter herbal notes.

96/100
Summary: Simply stunning. Probably the most impressive Vorberg I've ever had. An incredible combination of powerful, even youthful fruit, more developed, nutty notes and remarkable, acid-driven structure. Though the wine exhibits a bit more mature characteristics than the Vorberg 1996, this wine seems also very youthful; not only will this still keep in a cellar for years, even decades, but almost feels like it still needs some years to resolve its tightly wound structure. Might be that in the end the vintage 1996 takes the lead, but now this vintage is showing more beautifully. One of the most spectacular whites I've ever had.

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Pinot Bianco Vorberg 1994
  • Tasted on: June 10th, 2015
Luminous, deep golden yellow – something not unlike an aged dessert wine. Rich, concentrated bouquet with a lot of maturity and opulence. Complex, developed aromas of wizened yellow stone fruits, succulent peachy fruit, toasty, oxidative nuttiness, some creamy notes, a little earthy mushroom, hints of honey and caramel and a whiff of butter. Very rich, full-bodied and almost chewy palate with moderately high acidity and good, steely mineral brightness. Layered flavors of cream, roasted nuts, smoke, mirabelle plums, some bitter herbal notes, a little stony minerality and a hint of dried pineapple. Extremely persistent, intense and complex finish with aged, constantly evolving flavors of smoke, mirabelle plums, vanilla, cream, tangerine, yellow apple, sweet apple jam, steely and stony minerality and a hint of nuttiness.

95/100
Summary: A fantastic example of an aged Vorberg drinking more than beautifully right now. Not as youthful as the two previous vintages, but still full of life; probably won't develop much further, but will keep still for years, easily. One of the best Vorbergs I've tasted. Really lovely.

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2002–1994
2003–2012

Apparently Vorberg Riservas require prolonged cellaring before they start showing beautifully. When young, they can be really rich, opulent and impressive wines in their own right, but nothing of true interest. At around 10 years of age they start exhibiting first developed notes and around 15 years of age they start shedding their baby fat – they don't appear as full-bodied and opulent as the younger wines, but they still retain their ripe, concentrated fruit and impressive weight. On average it seems that the poorer vintages survive around 10–15 years, better ones easily at least 20, even more. With the best vintages, I have no idea how long they will keep, as the most impressive ones seemed still remarkably young and tightly wound even at 20 years of age. I guess it's safe to declare that the best vintages of Vorberg Riserva are semi-eternal white wines that only gain depth and complexity, but they just don't seem to age.

In a nutshell, Cantina Terlano's Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva is not only the world's best Pinot Blanc white wine, but also one of the most spectacular white wines, no matter the varietal, with aging capability on par with the best dry German Rieslings or white Burgundies. This is truly a white wine to look for.