Showing posts with label 2007. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2007. Show all posts

August 20, 2017

Vertical of the month: Duc de Larsan Madiran 2005-2011

I hope my post on Tannat is still fresh in your memory! (If it isn't, you can always read it from here.) This is because this post is again on Tannat, that wonderful tannic monster from the Southwest France. This time, however, I'm not going to delve deep into the history of this grape variety nor discuss about the different styles it can be made into. Instead, as this is another one of my Monthly Vertical posts, I'm going to look into the specific Madiran wine Duc de Larsan and how it can stand up to the test of time.

First, a foreword. Duc de Larsan has been sold for a long time here in Finland in Alko, our state monopoly of alcohol. At approximately 10€ ($12 or £9) the wine is relatively inexpensive – taking into account that the cheapest available plonk here currently costs about 7€ ($8 or £6) – which does not give much promise aging-wise. It's just a lowly entry-level Madiran wine made by a huge (owning 1,400 hectares / 3,500 acres!) producer Castel Frères and – judging by a little bit of googling – its main market is most likely just Finland, because you're really hard-pressed to find any non-Finnish mentions of the wine. This also explains why there is no mention of the wine in the Castel Frères home page and why it is impossible to find any information whatsoever on the wine, bar the product profile in Alko's pages.

So, back to my original point point. Normally wines sold here for 10€ are just basic entry-level wines, only a notch above the horrendous nigh-drinkable plonk, definitely not wines that could be aged in a cellar. For the most part, these 10€ wines are meant to be drunk within the year and the best ones can age perhaps a year or two more. That's why I was surprised positively when I tasted Duc de Larsan for the first time – granted, it wasn't an outstanding wine by any means, but instead a quite typical for a French wine that's sold for 10€ here. However, it showed such high acidity and impressive tannins that I was stunned how it was possible to make such a seriously structured at that price point – normally what you'd get at that price point is either dilute Valpolicella or then just jammy, soft new world plonk where the acidity is replaced with residual sugar.

That's why I was understandably thrilled when I heard my friend had a bunch of different vintages of Duc de Larsan stashed away and offered me a seat in this vertical tasting of his. Now I could finally verify if my hunch was correct and this inexpensive little wine was actually capable of not just surviving, but actually developing in the cellar!

Duc de Larsan Madiran
AOC Madiran
  • Groupe Castel
  • Country: France
  • Region: Le Sud-Ouest, Madiran
  • Grape(s): Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Price: 9,99€ / 0,75
The wine is made predominantly from Tannat, as dictated by the Appellation rules, with some Cabernet Sauvignon in the mix to soften up the wine a bit (it always cracks me up how there is a region where you can actually soften the wines with relatively the tannic Cabernet Sauvignon). The wine is aged in oak barrels – as pointed out by the label, stating elevé en fûts de chêne. Precise varietal compositions or aging times are not available, as I couldn't locate a single technical file on the wine.

***

Duc de Larsan Madiran 2011
AOC Madiran
  • Tasted on: 9th of January 2016

14% of alcohol.

Very dense and concentrated pitch-black color with ruby red highlights, true to the Tannat style. The nose feels very youthful, rich and concentrated with aromas of freshly picked dark berries, dark chocolate shavings, some sweet mocha character, a little bit of leather and a hint of raisin. The wine is very ripe, rich and full-bodied on the palate with extracted, chewy feel. There are flavors of ripe blackberries, sweet dark plums, chocolate oak, some juicy blackcurrants and a little bit of cocoa richness, offset by a touch of astringent bitterness. Overall the wine feels quite modern with pronounced oak character and lots of so ripe fruit flavors the wine comes across almost sweet, yet the wine is also tremendously structured with moderately high acidity and massive, tremendously grippy tannins. The finish is long, rich and juicy, yet also quite bitter and really mouth-drying. There are succulent flavors of sweet dark berries, fresh blackcurrants, some plummy fruit, a little bit of oak chocolate and a hint of smoke.

All in all this wine feels very modern, oak-heavy take on Madiran, yet also one that isn't stripped of its massive tannins – which isn't that commonplace with modern Madiran wines. Relatively ripe and sweet example of the Duc de Larsan style.

86/100
Summary: I'm really not thrilled about this wine's prominent oak character, as it feels like the wood is drowning most of the finer nuances of fruit underneath. Still the wine shows great promise with its concentrated fruit and tightly-knit structure, making it feels much younger than what it is now, at 4 years of age. Hence, with enough cellaring one might find a lovely wine underneath all that oak and ripeness in the future. Really great value for 9,99€.

***

Duc de Larsan Madiran 2009
AOC Madiran
  • Tasted on: 9th of January 2016

13,5% of alcohol.

Opaque black-red color. Somewhat closed nose with reticent aromas of dark plums, some sweet and slightly chocolatey oak character, a little bit of crunchy blackcurrant and hints of ripe dark berries. The wine feels concentrated, full-bodied and chewy on the palate with very dry and quite dense flavors of dark plums, plush dark berry character, tannic bitterness, some tart cranberry, a little bit of iron and a hint of cocoa oak. The wine is medium-to-moderate in acidity with abundant yet surprisingly ripe and powdery tannins. The finish is rich and quite oaky with long, ripe flavors of sweet plums, crunchy blackcurrants, some blackberries and a hint of cocoa. The tannins give the aftertaste a little bit of chewy, even a hint of mealy feel and make the wine end on a somewhat mouthdrying note.

I was expecting quite a massive wine for a 2009, but this was surprisingly well-proportioned an effort for such a warm vintage wine. Fortunately even the alcohol levels were quite moderate. Perhaps the warm vintage was the reason why the tannins were this time relatively smooth and mellow?

87/100
Summary: A nice and surprisingly balanced example of the Duc de Larsan style. The oak seems to be integrating with the fruit pretty nicely, but there is still quite a bit of it left, so even though the wine is starting to drink nicely, there are no hurries with this one. Great value at 9,99€.

***

Duc de Larsan Madiran 2008
AOC Madiran
  • Tasted on: 9th of January 2016

13% of alcohol.

Somewhat translucent, yet still quite opaque and surprisingly youthful, purple-hued cherry color. The opacity is starting to give way, if compared to more opaque vintages 2009 and 2011. The nose seems somewhat developed and a bit sharp with aromas of smoke, dusty earth and some herbal greenness with some plummy dark fruit, a little bit of sweet oak and a hint of minty coolness. There is some obvious sense of weight and concentration on the palate and the body is full and chewy. Flavor-wise the wine is dominated by minty herbal character, some spicy oak and notes of dusty cellar. The fruit department feels a bit subdued, but still pretty much alive with flavors of sweet dark fruits, crunchy blackcurrants and ripe red berries. The structure is still very impressive and tightly-knit with abundant, grippy tannins and high acidity that feels noticeably higher than in vintages 2009 or 2011. The finish is rich, long and very astringent with massive, mouth-drying tannins and fruit flavors of ripe plums and blackcurrants. The oak character feels much more noticeable than in midpalate, giving the aftertaste a rather sweet note of oak spice and chocolate milkshake.

There was some discussion whether this wine suffered from TCA or not, but we decided on the wine being OK, seeing how the dusty aromas really didn't smell that corky and there was still pretty much fruit left to the wine. The fruit department seemed rather subdued and thin when compared to the surrounding vintages, however.

86/100
Summary: All in all, this is one of the most seriously structured Duc de Larsan wines in the past handful of vintages. Still very concentrated and brooding in style, yet starting to shows subtle signs of age as well. Hopefully the reticent fruit character can be chalked up to bottle variation, as the structure still needs some more aging in a cellar to resolve. Good, but nothing outstanding here. Priced according to its quality at 9,99€.

***

Duc de Larsan Madiran 2007
AOC Madiran
  • Tasted on: 9th of January 2016

13,5% of alcohol.

Somewhat translucent, slightly developed dark cherry color with a hint of mature figgy hue towards the rim. Somewhat closed and reticent nose with aromas of dusty earth, some dark plummy fruit, a little bit of savory, dark-toned oak spice and hints of crunchy dark berries. The wine is full-bodied, weighty and super-juicy on the palate with rich, chewy flavors of ripe dark plums, some developed notes of sweet dates, a little bit of juicy blackberries and a hint of bitterness. Even at 8 years of age the dark-toned mocha oak character seems quite prominent, although the tannins start to feel a bit resolved and less grippy than in the younger vintages. The wine is modest-to-medium in acidity, further emphasizing the richness and juicy quality of the fruit. The aftertaste feels more tannic and mouthdryingly astringent than the midpalate. There are long, rich and complex flavors of sweet oak, ripe dark berries, some blood, a little bit of dill and an umami hint of beef consommé in the slightly developed aftertaste.

In our tasting this was the favorite wine of many, but not for me – the wine was still too oaky for my taste and the acidity felt less than adequate here, making the wine feel somewhat tired and flabby. However, there was still lots of very nice qualities to the wine, so despite being quite a bruiser, this was overall a positive experience.

87/100
Summary: At 8 years of age, the wine is starting to show some mature qualities, but as it still feels relatively youthful I can't help wondering how long-lived wines these 10€ wines can really be and how on earth they age at a glacial pace? I guess that's the Tannat doing its magic tricks.

***

Duc de Larsan Madiran 2005
AOC Madiran
  • Tasted on: 9th of January 2016

13% of alcohol. The oldest wine in our tasting of vintages 2005–2011. This is supposed to be a warm vintage, but the alcohol level is the lowest among these vintages.

Dark, luminous cherry color with some transparency – obviously the least opaque wine in our tasting. The nose is complex and starting to show some developed character with aromas of plums, ripe dark berries, some nuanced mocha oak, a little bit of dried figs, a hint of chocolatey oak spice, a whiff of dusty earth and a touch of dill.

The wine is medium-bodied on the palate with velvety mouthfeel. There are nuanced flavors of ripe dark fruits, some sweet oak spice, a little bit of succulent, sweet dark berries, a hint of tangy, fresh blackcurrant and a nice, balancing streak of sour cherry bitterness. The tannins feel quite ample, but they have become surprisingly soft and mellow with age, letting the quite high acidity take care of the structure. The finish is long, complex and developed with ripe dark berries, sweet mocha oak, some dried fig aromatics, a little bit of leather and a hint of tobacco. The tannins give only a little bit of astringency to the aftertaste, but they give a lot of chewy, grainy texture to it.

Definitely the most developed wine in our tasting, but still it feels it is going up – there is quite much of life to the wine left (and some oak to integrate). Many people in the tasting felt like it was past its peak or just otherwise less impressive, but I enjoyed the lighter body of this wine, letting the acidity shine through nicely.

89/100
Summary: I do wonder, however, that how long-lived these wines really are? After all, at 9,99€ they are among the cheapest drinkable wines you can buy in Finland, and these kinds of wines usually drink well for 2–3 years. This wine, on the other hand, feels like it is still going up at over 10 years of age. This might not be the most complex or otherwise impressive of wines, but in its price point it is quite peerless. Worth 90 points if the oak ever integrates with the fruit before the wine falls apart with age. Among the Duc de Larsan wines we tasted, this was my wine of the night.

Our Wheel of Madiran from out Tannat tasting with the Duc de Larsan wines on the fore.
The bottom line is this: even in Finland there are wines under 10€ you can stash away in your cellar and enjoy them when they are 10 years old, or even older! Granted, these wines aren't spectacular wines in any way, but one really shouldn't expect that at this price point – and they turn out surprisingly enjoyable, given enough age.

Although the modern, oak-heavy style of Duc de Larsan didn't impress me that much, I was still nonplussed how nicely the wines performed at 10 years of age! Perhaps I will need to keep an eye of the better vintages in the future and stash away a case of them? At least this vertical tasting convinced me of the aging potential of this little big wine. One should also remember how it is possible to find tremendous value in wines of lesser-known regions, if one is only willing to do a little bit of researching.

July 4, 2017

Vertical of the month: Château Musar 2000-2009

As my Vertical of the Month post on white Musar proved to be such a popular piece, it wasn't hard to decide writing a similar post on red Musar as well. However, I wanted a more concise theme this time so I decided on concentrating solely on the vintages of the 00's instead of a huge post on every red Musar I had tasted. The problem was that the belated vintage 2006 was yet to hit the market. However, in the late March 2017 the 2006 Musars finally arrived to the market, so all I needed to do was to acquire a bottle, taste it and write a piece on the 10 first Musars of this millennium. It took me a few more months to do this arduous task, but here we finally are.

Our lineup from 28th of May, 2016
Lebanese Château Musar (often written without the circumflex as Chateau Musar) is by far the best-known winery in the Levant and also among the best-known wineries in the natural wine movement. Unlike so many wineries of the modern natural wine movement who have started to produce wines more naturally around or after the turn of the millennium, Château Musar has produced their wines with minimal intervention since 1977, predating the vast majority of natural wine producers by a decade or a lot more. The method of production is quite simple at Château Musar: the grapes are crushed and left to ferment on the natural yeasts. No yeast inoculations, nutrients or other additives are used and the use of sulfur is kept at minimum, letting the nature go its course without winemaker's manipulation. The resulting wines are very often rustic and exhibiting characteristics like brettanomyces or pronounced volatile acidity – traits often considered as unwanted, even faults – yet also remarkably balanced and capable of aging easily for decades.

Chateau Musar is the top tier of the winery's range, above the simple, early-drinking Musar Jeune range and the single-vineyard Hochar Pére et Fils. Out of the wines in the Chateau Musar range, the red one comprises the great majority of production (from a third to almost half of the winery's total production of some 700–800,000 bottles), whereas the white's production normally hovers around the 10–30,000 bottle mark . The rosé is by far the rarest wine in the Chateau Musar range as it is not made every year – and in those years when it is made, the amount of bottles produced is only some thousands.

What is remarkable in Musar wines is that they have always been produced in a geopolitically highly volatile area, where tensions and shoot-outs are not uncommon. Despite these difficulties, the wines were produced systematically even during the Lebanese civil war (1975–1990), when tensions were at their highest and bombshells were exploding all the way from Beirut, where the winery is located, to Beqaa valley, where the vineyards lie, and even in the vineyards. However, occasionally the grapes could not be transported directly via roads (some 70 km / 45 miles) from the Beqaa valley to the winery due to the unstable situations; in some cases the grapes had to be transported by taking a longer (250 km / 150 miles) detour, and once even by driving to the seaside and shipping them from port to port. Against all odds, there have been only two vintages that have not been released to this date:
  • The vintage of 1976 was lost due to the civil war: unstable situations prevented the workers to reach the vineyards and the crop was lost.
  • The vintage of 1984 was made, but there were great difficulties reaching the vineyards and transporting the fruit back to the winery – as it was impossible to reach the winery by land due to roads being closed, it was necessary to ship the fruit by sea. Due to this, the grapes were very overripe and started fermenting on their own before the winery was reached. The wine was practically undrinkable due to heavy flaws for years, even decades, but recent tastings have confirmed that the wine has changed into something remarkable after having been cellared for more than 30 years. The wine, however, still remains unreleased at the time of writing.

If you are interested on reading more in-depth introduction to the history and philosophy of Château Musar, I highly suggest you to read my other Vertical of the Month on Musar Blanc 1991–2007.

Chateau Musar
  • Château Musar
  • Country: Lebanon
  • Region: Beqaa
  • Grape(s): Cabernet Sauvignon (1/3), Carignan (1/3), Cinsaut (1/3)






The red Musar is the wine this winery is best known for. It is traditionally a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsaut in more or less equal proportions, left to ferment in cement tanks on indigenous yeasts. After the fermentation, the wine is aged for 1 year in oak barrels (approx. 25–35% new), after which the wine is normally blended together and then returned back to marry in the concrete vats. After a suitable period of aging (1–2 years) the wine blend is bottled without any fining or filtration. What makes this wine so unique is that according to the winery's philosophy it is not released until the winery deems it ready, a process which normally takes 7–10 years – the vintage 2006 was released only after the vintage 2009, after more than ten years of aging! Furthermore, Musar normally keeps up to 25% of the annual production stored in their cellars for later release.

Chateau Musar 2009
  • Price: 35,70€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 20th of January, 2017

The 2009 vintage was particularly good, remaining quite dry through the whole growing season and keeping all the difficulties at bay. The only particularly wet moment before the harvest was in the late March, giving the vines much-needed water after the dry first three months. Due to the hot summer, the harvest was brought on exceptionally early, starting on the 2nd of September with Cabernet Sauvignon and finishing on the 8th of September with Cinsaut. The wines were blended together only after 3 years of aging. 14% alcohol.

The color seems rather concentrated with dark, almost black red color showing only very little translucency. There are initial aromas of ripe, sunny fruit and lighter, sweeter VA notes of nail polish on the nose, with more subtle notes of very dark forest berries, some raisined fruit, a little hint of sweet oak spice and a touch of Assam tea. On the palate this full-bodied wine feels very youthful, quite dry and rather fruit-forward with flavors of ripe red berries, exotic spices, some strawberry sweetness, light meaty notes and a hint of savory wood. The typical animal and barnyard notes of Musar are practically nonexistent and even the volatility feels quite restrained. There is a sense of firmness along with good structure resulting from the relatively noticeable tannins and moderately high acidity. The finish is opulent and juicy with ripe, plummy flavors of sunny dark and red fruits, some cassis notes, light Middle Eastern spice hints and a touch of dry, savory wood. The tannins give the sweet, supple finish some positive sense of grip and grit.

Lovely balance, structure and focus here. Although I often enjoy purity of fruit in wines, this vintage of Musar feels remarkably polished and fruit-forward, making me miss some of those more quirky characteristics of some of the older vintages.

92/100
Summary: Overall this is a really juicy and supple red Musar where the warm, sunny growing conditions are very obvious and which is lacking those rustic and funky notes typical of Musar. Nevertheless, the wine shows good aging potential and hopefully it will gain some more complexity and more interesting characteristics with age. Recommended, especially for cellaring.

***

Chateau Musar 2008
  • Price: 23,00€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 28th of May, 2016

The first few months of 2008 weren't particularly good with rain and snow, but after the late February no rains reached Beqaa for the rest of the season. The March was moderate followed by sunny spring, keeping the humidity (and the amount of weeds) very low. In mid-August a heat wave arrived, making the grapes reach maturity at the same moment, creating some logistical problems on the harvesting of grape varieties – normally the grapes mature at different times, so there is no need to worry whether some varieties would turn overripe while picking the others. Especially Cinsaut seemed to only benefit from the heat wave. The wines were blended together after 3 years of aging. 14% alcohol.

Youthful, dark, almost black cherry color with faint purple hues and moderate translucency. Lovely, complex and wild nose so typical of Musar: sweet volatile notes, rich kirsch-driven fruit, ripe and succulent red berries, sunny dark fruit, some acetone, a little prune and a hint of bretty funk. Very intense, structured and quite full-bodied palate with surprisingly concentrated flavors of ripe dark berries, toasted spices, some sweet plummy fruit, a little sour cherry and a hint of acetaldehyde salinity – all counterpointed by moderately pronounced bitterness. The wine is held together beautifully with moderate acidity and quite chewy, grainy tannins. The wine finishes on a moderately long, spicy and slightly bitter note with a bit of alcohol warmth and flavors of sour cherry, tart lingonberry and a hint of salinity in the aftertaste.

This vintage is a surprisingly concentrated and structured for a Musar, which is nice change after the weaker and somewhat disappointing 2007.

93/100
Summary: The wine feels very imposing with its brooding, dark-toned fruit and those typical volatile-and-funky Musar notes; although promising, it seems to be in a bit awkward phase right now. Currently it requires easily more than just 2 hours of decanting which we had; however, I recommend giving the wine at least a decade more before opening it. Very, very recommended; definitely one of the most promising Musars in a while with good possibility of hitting a much higher score with age.

***

Chateau Musar 2007
  • Price: 35,70€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016
2007 was an uneven vintage with a sudden spring frost disturbing the growth cycle, cloudy and rainy May preventing 30% of flowering and a three-week heat wave in August hastening the ripening process before the harvest. All the three grape varieties matured very quickly and at the same time, creating some logistical problems to and in the winery. 14% alcohol.

Quite opaque, dark cherry color with figgy purple overtones. Slightly reticent and quite dry nose with slight greenness that lacks the typical sweeter sunny fruit character of Musar; there are aromas of ripe red berries, slightly unripe blue- and blackberries, some vaguely off-putting, chemical VA aromas, a little bit of cedary wood and hints of raisined fruit. Medium-to-full-bodied on the palate, coming across as quite austere and tannic for a Musar. There are youthful, but more dry than sweet flavors of ripe dark fruit, juicy yet bitter red forest berries, some volatility and a hint of sour cherry. Although the acidity is modest at best, the wine seems both quite tightly wound and a bit muted, even backward. The rather pronounced bitterness gives the wine some sense of structure, but also emphasizes the tannins in a not altogether pleasant way. Quite long, bitter and complex finish with juicy flavors of ripe dark berries, peppery spice and some tannic astringency with a bit of alcohol heat.

This might be an enjoyable and drinkable Musar, but compared to the usual house style, the wine seems rather austere, unresolved and backward. Although I'm a big fan of Musar, this time it just doesn't make the cut. I am not sure whether the wine is in some very awkward phase, or if it is just an off vintage.

87/100
Summary: Definitely a hard fellow now in its youth, but also seeming to lack focus and balance: there is a lot of structure – especially tannin-wise – and also some pronounced bitterness, but very little fruit to balance them out. I hope that the wine is in an awkward phase and it will resolve beautifully, but it can be that this is just an off vintage and it will never turn out to be anything truly memorable. Quite good and interesting for a red wine, but a disappointment for a young Musar. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for the 2007's I have in my cellar.

***

Chateau Musar 2006
  • Price: 31,95€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 23rd of June, 2017

A very difficult vintage, but not that much because of the climatic conditions – which were remarkable by themselves, feeling like a never-ending spring with only 10 days of summer weather – but due to the conflict between Hezbollah and Israel. Although it seemed that there wouldn't be a harvest at all, everybody still carried on normally despite the volatile conditions and fortunately a ceasefire came before the harvest. However, unlike the vintages that normally feel ready to be released after 7 years of aging, this wine was still in shambles in 2013, which is why the winery decided to postpone the release for a year. And then another. And yet another. Finally, the wine was ready for release in the spring of 2017. 14% alcohol.

Somewhat translucent dark cherry color that doesn't look that youthful anymore, but doesn't betray the +10 years of age either. Quite opulent, ripe and juicy nose which isn't that funky, but showing some acetic VA notes along with aromas of very ripe plums, even prunes, overripe blackberries, some sun-baked earth and hints of raisined fruit. Full-bodied on the palate with moderately high acidity but rather mellow tannins. There are flavors of fresh blackberries, overripe dark plums, exotic spice, some blackcurrant jam and hints of acetic volatility. Although the wine tastes quite dry, notes of dried prunes and raisins create an illusion of sweetness, giving the wine more juiciness and rounding its corners. The finish is medium-long with supple flavors of ripe and sweet dark forest fruits, black cherries, some plums, a bit of tannic bitterness and hints of peppery spice. The acidity makes the wine finish on a more tart lingonberry note along with a lightly gritty tannic grip.

A vintage that was anticipated for a long time, but which ultimately fails to captivate upon release. The wine might be quite balanced and enjoyable, but it is also quite mellow and rather tame effort for a Musar with a surprisingly noticeable raisiny character, especially given the cooler vintage.

90/100
Summary: Overall this wine feels, quite surprisingly, like a lighter take on those very ripe, raisiny and high-alcohol Plavac Mali wines grown in the southern Croatia. This soon after release the wine doesn't feel a remarkable vintage, but neither is this a disappointment like the 2007. Perhaps – and hopefully – the wine will gain some welcome complexity with age.

***

Chateau Musar 2005
  • Price: 35,90€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016

Unlike in most European wine countries, the 2005 was an atypically cool and humid vintage in Lebanon, resulting in harvest delayed more than a week from normal schedule (the harvest of red varieties was finished on 18th of September) and with wines showing lower than average alcohol and higher acidity. 14% alcohol.

Slightly translucent dark cherry color. Opulent, complex and ever so slightly volatile nose with lovely richness. Sweet, sunny aromas of plummy fruit, ripe figs, lilac, some red cherry, mature floral nuances, a little acetone VA and a touch of funky brett – although the succulent fruit tends to drown out the bretty barnyard character. Supple, full-bodied palate with good tannin structure and balanced, moderately high acidity. Ripe, succulent flavors of ripe plums, sweet figs, some rustic, bretty character, a little sun-baked earth, hints of jammy dark-skinned berries and a touch of dried prunes and raisins. Surprisingly robust and bold effort for a Musar, yet with fruit and body to match. Long and complex finish with a bit rustic and slightly astringent aftertaste of leather, bitter spices, ripe plummy fruit, some dried dark berries and a hint of bretty barnyard notes.

Overall 2005 feels a remarkable vintage for a red Musar (and white as well) resulting in a stunning combination of robust structure of both acidity and tannins and ripe, succulent fruit.

95/100
Summary: Lacking the finesse and delicate balance of the finer vintages, the red 2005 is all about power, intensity and – above all – cellaring potential. With fruit, body and structure as remarkable as these, I have no doubts that the wine wouldn't survive at least a quarter of a century in a good wine cellar. Drinking this wine now would be a travesty – try to get this stuff as many as you can and open the first one only after a decade. It will be worthwhile.

***

Chateau Musar 2004
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016

A very cool vintage: snow didn't melt until March, spring lasted until June and the ripening period was slowed down by constant cooler breezes. The grapes never developed much acidity and the first grapes arriving to the winery were rather low in sugar as well. However, a two-week heat wave that arrived during the harvest boosted the sugar levels in the remaining grapes. The wine was made in the traditional method: 9 months of aging in cement vats, 1 year in oak barrels, blending and maturation for 9 months in cement vats, finished with bottling and extended bottle aging before release. 14% alcohol.

Almost black cherry color with slightly maroon rim and only a little translucency. Ripe and sunny yet a bit understated nose with a bit sweet aromas of crushed ripe forest berries, some succulent plummy fruit and a hint of car paint volatility. Moderately full-bodied and velvety palate with soft medium acidity. Rich, opulent flavors of sweet dark cherries, dark-skinned berries, some kirsch and a hint of acetic volatility. Moderately tannic, but still showing suave smoothness without any coarse character. Long, complex and a bit grippy finish with quite light flavors of peppery spice and allspice and turmeric, ripe dark cherry, some tart lingonberry, alittle bit of sour cherry bitterness and a hint of dusty earthiness.

A smooth and classy Musar with hints of sweetness and less emphasis on the tannic structure. Shows hints of volatility, but is far from the funkiest end of Musars.

91/100
Summary: Not as open and expressive as many vintages before and after this, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing; also, the wine seems to have resolved from the clunky phase it was earlier this year (January 2016). Drinking nicely now, will keep easily for many years. Not the most typical Musar with its sweet, fruit-forward character and rather low acidity, but still very beautiful. Recommended.

***

Chateau Musar 2003
  • Price: 31,40€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 15th of February, 2013

The winter of 2003 was the rainiest in 15 years in Beqaa, but after April, no rain fell. A long heat wave in May decreased yields by 30%, concentrating the acidity and sugar levels in the remaining grapes substantially. However, July and August were cooler than normal, delaying the ripening process. Still, the harvest was carried out by normal schedule. The maceration was carried out over 3 weeks with maceration, resulting in firm, structured wines. The wines were aged for 9 months in cement vats, 12 months in Nevers oak barrels, blended together and matured for a further 6 months in cement vats before bottling. First released in 2010. 14% alcohol.

Quite translucent, dark ruby color with a slightly maroon hue. Very rich, expressive and aromatic nose with complex and even somewhat animal aromas of leather, tobacco, dried figs, wizened dark berries, some barnyard funk and a hint of sunny dark fruit. With some air, the bouquet gains also some nuances of floral perfume, licorice root and the faintest touch of cedar. The wine is quite rich, full-bodied and powerful on the palate with ripe, slightly sweet and intense flavors of sunny dark fruit, roasted spices, ripe red cherries, figs, some tobacco, a little sweaty saddle leather and a hint of cigar box. Though the flavors are quite sweet, overall the wine still tastes dry and relatively robust. The structure relies mainly on good, bright acidity, as the ample but fine tannins are rather mellow and friendly, giving the wine more sense of firmness than noticeable grip. Only the high-ish alcohol shows a little through. The finish is very long, complex and quite powerful with flavors of leather, cedar, dried figs, some dark chocolate chips, a hint of tobacco and a touch of rough animal funk.

This is truly a textbook example of a superb vintage Musar. Although starting to show some developed character at 10 years of age, this vintage has still a lot more to go before reaching its peak. At only 31,40€ this wine shows incredible value.

95/100
Summary: Even by Musar standards this vintage shines above its peers, being an incredibly attractive, complex and elegant effort. Not challenging by any means, but still showing quite much of that hallmark funk of the house – although this was not overtly dirty or super-volatile, it showed more of that attractive leathery and animal character than your average Musar. Still a baby with plenty of miles ahead, so no need to open this now – this'll age gracefully for decades.

***

Chateau Musar 2002
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016

In 2002 long, cold and rainy weather pushed the ends of the winter and the spring back, all the way into late June, followed by a mild July and, suddenly, hot August. The ripening process was delayed accordingly, the harvest starting two weeks behind the normal schedule, starting on 15th of September. The maturity of grapes was extremely varied from vineyard to vineyard, so instead of picking the varieties one by one, the harvest had to be done vineyard by vineyard, according to the maturity. The fermentation and maceration times were much longer than normal this year. After 6 months of aging in concrete vats, the wines were racked into oak barrels for one year. After the oak aging the wines were blended together and matured for a further year in oak casks before bottling. 14% alcohol.

Rather translucent, yet a bit hazy, dark cherry color with some orange bricking towards the rim. A bit restrained nose with delicate aromas of sweet, dark-skinned berries, figs, some car paint VA, something a little biscuity, a hint of plum marmalade and prunes with a whiff of powdery oak. Ripe, medium-bodied and surprisingly acid-driven palate with complex, savory flavors of ripe plummy fruit, dark-skinned forest berries, peppery, bitter spiciness, some aromatic and sweet clove spice, a little balsamic volatility and a hint of sweet red cherry. Quite soft and ripe but firm enough tannins. The lengthy finish carries the bitter, spicy note while turning the fruity notes into something more earthy and savory; along with the flavors of ripe and sweet dark-skinned berries, complex flavors of clove, funky brett, some sun-baked earth and hints of sweaty leather become more pronounced.

This vintage is a bit atypical for Musar, but still in a lovely way: the wine is not that open and expressive as some, yet still it shows lots of those typical, Musary notes of sunny fruit, animal, volatility and earth. It is actually surprisingly delicate and sophisticated in its expression compared to many other, more voluminous vintages with bigger fruit, yet still sporting a surprisingly pronounced wild-and-funky side as well.

92/100
Summary: Perhaps this is not a vintage that'll keep for several decades like the best ones – although I wouldn't be that surprised even if it actually did! At least the wine is not showing any real signs of maturity now, only some depth and complexity that the wine gains with bottle age, giving the wine good cellaring potential for at least a decade more. An attractive example of a more subtle expression of Musar.

***

Chateau Musar 2001
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016

A very hot and dry vintage: by mid-February the weather turned to much more warmer than usual with almost nonexistent rains. After relatively normal weather during the flowering, the weather turned hotter than normal for July and August, resulting in 15% reduction in yield. The harvest was carried ahead of the schedule, starting already on 3rd of September. The Cinsaut suffered from the hot weather, losing some of its color; thus, the percentage of Cinsaut is somewhat lower in this year's blend compared to other vintages. As normal, the wine was fermented and aged in cement vats for 9 months, aged in oak for 12 months, blended together and matured for a further year in cement vats before bottling. 13,5% alcohol.

Rather translucent dark cherry color with some orange bricking towards the almost clear rim. Lovely and attractive nose, with lovely depth and complexity – although the volatile acidity aromas so typical of Musar seem to be more pungent, chemical and glue-like instead of those sweeter, nuanced balsamico notes more typical of the house. Modestly developed aromas of savory dark berries, tart red berries, sunny dark fruit and some dark cherry with a little earthy sous-bois and a hint of dried, dusty leather. On the palate the wine is a lot sweeter, rich and suave than the nose suggests, with a supple, full body. Ripe, complex and dark-toned flavors of plummy fruit, aromatic spice, some fig, a little cherry, hints of leathery brett and a touch of paint thinner VA – intermingled with juicy, meaty notes. Moderately grippy, firm, dusty tannins and relatively high acidity give the wine good structure. Rich, quite robust and slightly grippy finish with savory flavors of ripe, dark-toned fruit, sour cherry, bitterness, some leather, a little salty acetaldehyde tang and a slightest touch of herbal greenness.

This is a delightful and surprisingly imposing – even somewhat brooding – vintage of Musar with surprisingly powerful structure and lots of depth and complexity but very little of that bretty barnyard funk.

93/100
Overall the 2001 does not seem as elegant and sophisticated as some vintages (some might consider calling a wine as wild and funky as Musar as "sophisticated" or "elegant" a travesty) with its roughness, occasionally slightly glue-like and more off-putting than attractive VA characteristics and slight greenness, but it still manages to hit many sweet spots with its combination of mature nuances and powerful, grippy character. Although starting to show some more developed notes, the structure seems quite unresolved even after 15 years – this is definitely a keeper with possibility for a higher score with more age. Tasty stuff now with right food, but a wine to be aged a lot more if enjoyed on its own. Very recommended.

***

Chateau Musar 2000
  • Tasted on: 28th of January, 2016

A warm and dry summer with hot July and temperatures above average in August. Released in 2007, alcohol 13,5%.

Translucent, medium deep red color tending to maroon. Rather reticent and restrained, but also nicely matured and savory nose with aromas of cherry, roasted spices, pencil shavings, dusty sun-baked earth, some developed and wizened dark fruit, a hint of reductive gunpowder smoke and a whiff of bretty funk. Full-bodied, noticeably spicy and structured palate with moderately developed, ripe and savory flavors of dark forest fruits, ripe red cherry, sweet sunny fruit, aromatic spices, some dried fig, a little pipe tobacco and a hint of bitter, sour cherry. The midpalate has a slightly pungent, saline streak giving the wine a bright, aldehydic Fino Sherry-esque overtone, supported by moderately high acidity. The wine has firm, ripe and slightly grippy tannins, giving it sense of firmness and good structure. The long, complex and generous finish is full of layered, interweaving notes of roasted spices, bitter sour cherry, dark sunny fruit, some dusty earth and a hint of dried figs. In the end, there is a lovely, slightly saline acetaldehyde lift.

Somehow this vintage of Musar seems a bit difficult one with atypical smoky and saline notes, yet still the wine does not come across as awkward or clumsy, but very delightful and tasty. Although these atypical notes give the wine some unique complexity, they also distract a little bit from the honest Musary core of sunny dark fruit and nuanced, earthy tones. Additionally, this is one of the less bretty and volatile vintages, with almost none of those leathery, barnyardy and balsamico notes apparent.

91/100
Summary: A Musar that is starting to exhibit some aged complexity in addition to the primary, fruity characteristics. The wine will most likely keep for a good while, but I'm not 100% sure whether it'll keep for a decade more – structure-wise there is a lot of aging potential, but the wine seems to lack focus and I hope it will not start to fall apart with more age. Despite of its lack of typicity, still recommended. This is a good and enjoyable Musar, but not among the great vintages.

***

For long I had a mnemonic for Musar vintages that odd ones are the ones you want to keep and even ones the ones you'll probably want to skip. Not that you'd want to skip any vintage of Musar, but pushed to make a choice over two vintages, I'd go for an odd vintage.

However, 2007 and 2008 changed this pattern: having tasted the 2007 in three different occasions over a six-month time span I must admit, it has turned out to be a disappointment of sorts. 2008, on the contrary, was a really tightly-knit and promising one, feeling almost too young but still full of cellaring potential. Most likely both of them will get better with age, but I expect a lot more from 2008 than from 2007 now.

The vintages 2009 and 2006 that followed, in that order, followed the logic of my mnemonic; although not as impressive as the vintages 2003 or 2005 were, the 2009 was still more lush and opulent effort, whereas the 2006 felt a bit more restrained and underwhelming, true to the even-numbered vintage style – which was also a bit disappointing, seeing how every Musarophile was waiting for its release for more than three years after it wasn't released according to the normal release schedule of Musar.

Our lineup from 28th of January, 2016
All in all, I hope that this guide through a decade of Musars will be of some help if you ever come across of multiple vintages of Musars and you are pressed to choose only one or some among them. Overall the first 10 years of the 21st century seem to have produced some very attractive and delightful wines, practically all of them capable of surviving at least 10 years of cellaring, some of them even multiple decades. Only the vintage 2007 seems to be a bit of an underachiever now, but perhaps with some age it can turn out all right. Practically all the other vintages are more or less safe bets: some are drinking nicely now and some only after some years, even a decade in the cellar, but most of the wines are actually really lovely now yet they sport remarkable cellaring potential – true to the classic Musar style.

April 29, 2017

Verdicchio

Verdicchio is a white grape that is grown pretty much throughout the Italy, although the variety is found most often across the eastern coast of Italy, close to the Adriatic Sea. The variety has found its spiritual home in Marche, a small region on the eastern coast of Italy where Matelica and Castelli di Jesi – two of the most celebrated Verdicchio wine regions – are located. Out of these two, Castelli di Jesi is the bigger one and better known, capable of producing impressive wines in larger quantities, whereas the hillier Matelica is much smaller, resulting in equally smaller production, but also thought to be capable of producing wines of even more finesse and higher quality.

In addition to Marche, Verdicchio is grown to some extent in Umbria (the region between Marche and Tuscany) and Lazio (the region south from Tuscany, where Rome is located). Furthermore, at some point ampelographers realized that Trebbiano di Lugana (aka. Trebbiano di Soave aka. Trebbiano Valtenesi aka. Turbiana) isn't a Veronese high-quality clone of the normally rather neutral Trebbiano, but instead a variety that is genetically identical to Verdicchio. Apparently Verdicchio actually originated around the Garda lake and at some point during the 15th century winegrowers migrated south from Veneto to cultivate vines in Marche, bringing Verdicchio cuttings along with them. Currently there are over 5,300 ha (over 13,000 acres) of Verdicchio grown in Italy, of which 1,800 ha (4,450 acres) in and around Veneto.

The grapes from Veneto produce wines that are slightly different from those produced in Marche, yet with that unmistakably weighty yet refreshing character of Verdicchio. In Marche varietal Verdicchio wines are the norm, whereas in Veneto the variety is normally encountered as a varietal wine mainly in the Lugana wine region; in Soave the variety is used as an accessory grape to bring in more structure, body and perfume to the more neutral Garganega variety – although the Suavia winery produces a wonderful 100% Trebbiano di Soave called Massifitti in Soave Classico.

Although Verdicchio is not a variety that well-known and hasn't garnered much attention, it is still one of the most highly regarded Italian white varieties amongst critics and those who have at least some knowledge of Italian white wines. This is because not only are these wines delicious with their often lemony acidity and intriguing flavors suggestive of almonds and even bitter spices, but the best ones can be really impressive, serious and even capable of aging for decades.

Here is a selection of different Verdicchio wines that I have tasted through these years:

***

Belisario Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva Cambrugiano 2008
DOCG Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva
  • Belisario
  • Country: Italy
  • Region: Marche, Matelica
  • Grape(s): Verdicchio (100%)
  • Price: 15,00€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 29th of December, 2012



With 300 ha (750 acres) of vineyards, Belisario is the biggest Verdicchio producer in Matelica. Cambrugiano, in turn, is the world's first Riserva-quality Verdicchio, produced since 1988. The grapes are sourced from vineyards located at the altitude of 400 meters and only the best grapes are selected. The wine is aged for 12 months in stainless steel (80%) and in 225-liter oak barriques (20%) and another 12 months in bottles.

Deep yellow color with pale green highlights, slightly oily appearance.

The wine has an elegant, balanced and quite expressive nose with aromas of honeydew melon, pear, some yellow damson, a little almond, a hint of hay and a touch of herbal notes.

It is dry, moderately full-bodied and broad on the palate with slightly oily mouthfeel counterpointed by bright, racy acidity. There are complex flavors of dried herbs, acid-driven citrus fruits, some floral nuances, a little yellow damson and a hint of almonds with a vague undertone of vanilla.

Finally the wine finishes with a ripe, fruity and medium-long finish with harmonious flavors of exotic spices, yellow stone fruits, some minerality and a hint of almond-driven nuttiness.

In a sense this is not a "big, voluptuous and impressive" Riserva white, but instead a balanced and well-made Verdicchio, where the difference between Riserva and "normale" is evident in the addition of depth, complexity and elegance, not in bigger concentration, more ripe fruit or heavier oak influence.

91/100
Summary: Cambrugiano is a very stylish and sophisticated Verdicchio di Matelica, thoroughly enjoyable on its own, but also a lovely and versatile food wine. Definitely one of the better Verdicchios in the market and shows obvious aging potential for at least 5 years more. Tremendous value at 15€.

***

Bucci Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2009
DOC Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
  • Azienda Agricola Villa Bucci
  • Country: Italy
  • Region: Marche, Castelli di Jesi
  • Grape(s): Verdicchio (100%)
  • Price: 15,25€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 27th of October, 2012



The entry-level Verdicchio of the winery. Made from organically grown grapes sourced from different parcels, all vinified separately. The Classico in the name tells that these parcels are located in the classic heartland of the Castelli di Jesi wine region, whereas the Superiore refers to the higher-than-normal alcohol content, translating to grapes of more ripeness.

Lovely golden yellow color.

A bit reticent nose with typical Verdicchio aromas of ripe citrus fruits, some pineapple-driven yellow fruit, a little almondy nuttiness, a hint of elderflower and a touch of ripe yellow damson.

Although the wine is modestly medium-bodied on the palate, it is still surprisingly broad and intense with almost oily mouthfeel. There are powerful and quite spicy flavors of almonds, fennel, aromatic herbs, some tropical and yellow fruits like mirabelle plum, unripe tangerine and starfruit, and hints of cookie dough. Good structure with racy acidity.

Very dry and quite complex finish with intense herbal notes, almond-driven nuttiness, a little hay, hints of peachy yellow fruit and a touch of steely minerality.

Overall this is a balanced, but surprisingly intense and powerful Verdicchio with lots of youthful energy. Definitely a food wine, as the wine might be too overwhelming on its own; it also needs food hearty enough to withstand the structure and the intensity of the flavor.

91/100
Summary: Drinking nicely now, but will easily develop for several years in the cellar. Recommended and a wonderful purchase at 15,25€.

***

Colonnara Ubaldo Rosi Riserva Spumante Metodo Classico 2007
DOC Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Superiore Spumante Riserva
  • Colonnara
  • Country: Italy
  • Region: Marche, Castelli di Jesi
  • Grape(s): Verdicchio (100%)
  • Price: 19,00€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 30th of April, 2014



A méthode traditionelle sparkling wine made with Verdicchio grapes made by the local quality-oriented co-operative founded in 1959. Bottle-aged for a minimum 5 years before disgorging. Hand-riddling. This bottle was disgorged in 2013.

Luminous pale green color.

Aromas of ripe apple, honeydew melon, lemon curd, some aged honeyed nuttiness, hints of floral nuances and a touch of that Verdicchio spiciness. Also, with some air, an autolytic note of French bread emerges.

On the palate the wine is very dry and really fresh with very fine, creamy mousse and medium body. There are complex flavors of fresh apple, lemon peel, some almond notes, a hint of spiciness and a touch of bitterness. Good acidity that gives the wine structure and intensity.

The finish is long, mouth-cleansing and somewhat bitter with flavors of almonds, lemon-driven citrus fruits and an autolytic hint of yeasty leesiness.

Overall this is a really attractive, albeit a very youthful and primary Spumante Riserva – I assume this wine would develop really nicely over medium-to-long term in a cellar.

92/100
Summary: Really tremendous stuff and will pair really good with light, oily dishes. Despite the age, there is definitely no hurry opening this one. Great value at 19€ – sourced straight from the winery in Marche.

***

San Lorenzo Vigneto delle Oche Riserva 2004
DOCG Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva
  • Fattoria San Lorenzo
  • Country: Italy
  • Region: Marche, Castelli di Jesi
  • Grape(s): Verdicchio (100%)
  • Price: ~23€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 12th of October, 2015



Fattoria San Lorenzo is regarded some of the best producers in the Jesi region, if not the best. Although coming from a family that has grown vines and made wine for generations, San Lorenzo is a relatively newcomer, having been founded only in 1995. They make three Verdicchio wines, all that have been named by the geese (le oche) that roam in the vineyards: the entry-level wine Le Oche, the mid-tier superiore wine Campo delle Oche and the single-vineyard riserva wine, Vigneto delle Oche. This Riserva is made from organically grown grapes and it is aged first for a whopping 2 years in concrete tanks and then a further 12 months in stainless steel before it is bottled unfiltered.

Deep, moderately developed honeyed yellow color.

After having been aged for more than 10 years, the wine's bouquet betrays the age with layered aromas of nutty complexity, matured toasty notes, honeyed roasted almonds, rich candy aromas of wine gums, some cantaloupe, a hint of smoky minerality and a touch of dried apricots.

On the palate the wine feels full-bodied, obviously quite developed and very textural, yet remarkably bright and structured due to its lively acidity. The flavors are dominated by mature nutty flavors, but there are also complex notes of wildhoney, stony minerality, nectarine and some spiciness. The mouthfeel is quite weighty, waxy and somewhat concentrated by the age.

The finish is incredibly powerful, complex and developed with mature, layered nuances of roasted exotic spices, developed nuttiness, some stony minerality, a little dried peach and a hint of honey. The acidity becomes even more pronounced towards the end of the aftertaste, making the wine end on a bright, lively and mouthwatering note.

This might just be the most impressive Verdicchio I've ever tasted, stylistically getting very close to an aged high-quality Burgundy white, yet still with unmistakably Italian flair. Stunning, really.

96/100
Summary: This wine is really a testament to how the best Verdicchios (riservas, usually) not only age really well, but actually require surprisingly much age just to show their potential. This wine also shows how oak aging isn't really necessary to make impressive, weighty and age-worthy whites. Young vintages of this wine can be found for as low as 15€, but with any luck one might be able to source these older vintages for approx 25€. At less than 25€ this wine shows simply ridiculous value.

***

Sartarelli Balciana 2009
DOC Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
  • Sartarelli
  • Country: Italy
  • Region: Marche, Castelli di Jesi
  • Grape(s): Verdicchio (100%)
  • Price: ~30,00€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 12th of October, 2015



The flagship wine of the Sartarelli range, made from the grapes sourced from the highly esteemed vineyard located in Contrada Balciana. The grapes here ripen extremely slowly and the harvest can go on as late as mid-November in some years. In the coolest years the grapes can't reach optimum ripeness at all and the vintage is completely skipped. The wine sees only stainless steel and glass bottles during the aging, total annual production can reach approx. 15,000 bottles at the highest.

Moderately developed, pale golden yellow color.

Surprisingly dry and savory nose with some smoky aged character, revealing layered nuances of bruised cider apple, exotic spices, ripe stone fruits, some toasty matured notes and hints of aged nuttiness.

Despite the vintage 2009, which is generally regarded as pretty hot throughout Europe, the wine feels medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with balanced, racy acidity that cuts nicely through the rich fruit. Overall the wine feels remarkably fresh and crisp with intense, but surprisingly little-developed flavors of citrus fruits, ripe red apple, cantaloupe, some spicy almondy character and sweeter hints of exotic fruits and apricots.

The wine finishes on a tightly-knit and structured, but more developed note with flavors of yellow stone fruits, some red apple, a little honeydew melon, a hint of exotic spices and a touch of roasted almonds.

For a Verdicchio at 6 years of age, Balciana 2009 feels remarkably young and fresh, apparently aging only at a glacial pace. A remarkable powerhouse for a Verdicchio.

94/100
Summary: You can really taste the concentration, power and potential here and, as this vintage testifies, there is no point opening a wine this impressive yet. Most likely the wine will start to exhibit more mature character only after 10 or so years and hits its stride really at 15–20 years of age, so there is no point opening these wines yet. Truly a remarkable example of what Verdicchio can produce in Marche.

***

Sartarelli Tralivio 2010
DOC Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
  • Sartarelli
  • Country: Italy
  • Region: Marche, Castelli di Jesi
  • Grape(s): Verdicchio (100%)
  • Price: 13,00€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 12th of October, 2015



The mid-tier Verdicchio of Sartarelli, made solely from selected grapes of their oldest vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Annual production approx. 90,000 bottles.

Somewhat developed peachy yellow color.

Quite rich and complex nose with aromas of ripe yellow stone fruits, yellow gummy bear candies, some developed waxy notes with fruit that is taking on a sweet marmalade edge, hints of almondy nuttiness and a touch of mature creamy / buttery character.

On the palate the wine feels moderately full-bodied and even a bit oily, yet also high in acidity giving the wine even somewhat crisp bite and good, robust structure. There are flavors of citrusy fruit, some exotic spice, modest stony minerality, a little developed honey character and light hints of crushed almonds. Overall the wine feels that is has concentrated a bit with the age, becoming somewhat weighty and rich, yet still carrying that lemony acidity typical of the variety.

The wine finishes with a long, rich and powerful aftertaste of ripe citrus fruits, sweet red apple, some stony minerality, a little exotic spice and hints of almond.

Overall this is a surprisingly serious, rich and structured Verdicchio that is already starting to show some signs of age with some sense of concentration and honeyed fruit, yet the wine is remarkably fresh and taut like a wine that was bottled only yesterday.

93/100
Summary: Very impressive effort that is at 5 years of age only suggesting of the potential the wine can show with age. Obviously a white meant for the long haul. No reason to open any time soon, even though the wine is drinking quite nicely already – it would be just waste of potential. Stunning value at only 13€.


***

Suavia Massifitti 2010
IGT Bianco Veronese
  • Suavia
  • Country: Italy
  • Region: Veneto, Soave Classico
  • Grape(s): Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) (100%)
  • Price: 11,90€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 24th of April, 2014



Often people seem to think that Massifitti is a Soave Classico, but as it is a 100% Trebbiano di Soave aka. Turbiana aka. Verdicchio, it can't be labeled as such – instead this is an IGT Bianco Veronese. Its first vintage was 2008, so this is only the 3rd vintage of the wine ever made. Aged for 15 months sur lie in stainless steel with a part of wine undergoing MLF. After the tank aging the wine is lightly filtered and then bottled in these distinctive potato masher bottles in which the wine is aged for a further 15 months. Annual production is only 3000 bottles.

Luminous youthful green color.

Very expressive, rich and attractive nose with lots of ripe fruits such as sweet citrus fruits, honeydew melon, peach and apple purée along with pronounced notes of wet stone minerality, some understated spiciness and a touch of floral aromatics.

On the palate the wine is quite full-bodied and rich with moderate concentration, but almost bone-dry and very structured as well, thanks to its bracing, focused acidity and rough stony minerality that supports the weighty core of ripe apple, pronounced spiciness and pithy lemon notes. Great freshness with very modest alcohol (12,5%) – the wine feels surprisingly light for such a big wine.

The finish is full of apple and stony minerality, but with more focus on tart, green apple notes that turn towards quinine mineral bitterness towards the end.

Although not technically a Soave, this is hands down one of the most impressive wines produced in the Soave Classico region. Truly a showcase of the potential what Trebbiano di Soave can attain in right terroir with sensible winemaking.

95/100
Summary: Massifitti shows a tremendous combination of richness and focused freshness. This is most likely a wine that'll age nicely for years, but it is drinking so nicely right now that keeping bottles in a cellar and not touching them would be a chore! Ridiculously amazing value at only 11,90€.

***

Zenato Lugana Riserva Sergio Zenato 2008
DOC Lugana Riserva
  • Zenato
  • Country: Italy
  • Region: Lombardy / Veneto, Lugana
  • Grape(s): Trebbiano di Lugana (Verdicchio) (100%)
  • Price: 23,90€ / 0,75
  • Tasted on: 17th of October, 2011



The flagship white wine of Zenato, a famed producer located by the Garda lake. Made from the best Trebbiano di Lugana grapes sourced from the Lugana wine region, located at the border of Lombardy and Veneto at the southern shore of the lake Garda; the wine is fermented in 5,000-liter oak casks and 300-liter tonneaux (70%) and stainless steel (30%). Aged for 6 months in oak tonneaux and 12 months in bottles before release.

Deep golden yellow color.

Very open, floral and fruity nose with notes of honey, butterscotch and ripe tropical fruits – especially pear and overripe pineapple.

The taste is somewhat lighter and more restrained after the generous nose. On the palate the wine is round, supple and full-bodied, toasted and slightly spicy with some alcoholic heat. Oak is well integrated with brief notes of vanilla and butterscotch complementing the ripe apple notes of the mid-palate. Wine seems to lack acidity, resulting in very full body and sensation of sweetness with the ripe fruits, but also resulting in some lack of structure, energy and focus.

The wine finishes pretty short with notes of spicy oak and ripe tropical fruits.

Overall the wine is pleasant with an elegant taste and and complex aromatics, but it is also a bit heavy and unstructured – for example with its modest acidity, I don't know how well the wine can survive heavier dishes.

89/100
Summary: Though quite weighty and serious for a Lugana wine, the wine is somewhat lacking focus and brightness, feeling a bit too modern and overdone. To me, the wine is best served quite well chilled, paired with spicy Asian kitchen, or enjoyed on its own. I think it feels a tad too pricey at 23,90€.

February 18, 2017

Vertical of the month: Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 2007–1970

When speaking about terroir, Burgundy is without a question The Place: here the vineyards are mapped with stupefying detail by their potential to produce wines of extraordinary quality, based on their soil, climatic conditions and gradient of the slope. Nowhere else in the world have the different vineyards been so meticulously mapped and qualified by their capability in producing grapes of the highest quality. However, there are a handful of places in the world where the terroir's potential is acknowledged not only in regional, but also at more specific vineyard level: in Germany especially in Mosel, but also to some extent in other German regions as well, are famous vineyards that are known to produce better fruit than the others; Alsace adopted a Grand Cru system for their best vineyards in 1975; also some other French wine regions, like Northern Rhône and Loire have a small number of unique vineyards that are recognized even at the appellation level – most prominent ones being the monopoles of Château Grillet in Rhône and Clos de la Coulée de Serrant in Savennières, Loire. However, I argue that Barolo and Barbaresco are those two regions that would be in most urgent need of Burgundian level overhaul of their classification due to their geographical complexity.

In the 20th century the wine regions of Barolo and Barbaresco gained widespread recognition and currently are considered to be in the top echelon of both Italy's and the whole world's wine regions. Both of these regions have specific vineyards – the so-called Barolo Crus and Barbaresco Crus – where the effect of terroir is more pronounced and the grapes from these vineyards (especially Nebbiolo, the noble grape of the region capable of expressing the terroir noticeably) can produce wines of distinction and high quality. However, these regional Crus are not recognized at the appellation level nor is there even any widespread agreement on which vineyards are better than the others. This is despite the fact that many wine professionals agree how some vineyards just are not up to the level of the others, even though most of the Cru vineyards can produce distinctive wines – something not unlike the distinction between the Premier Crus and Grands Crus of Burgundy.

One of the biggest problems is that in Barolo and Barbaresco the vineyards can often span an entire face of a hill, from the top to the bottom; this is in stark contrast to Burgundy, where the Grand Cru level vineyards are normally situated mid-slope, often surrounded by Premier Cru vineyards towards the upper and lower parts of the hill and the hilltop and valley floor vineyards belonging only to the regional appellation. This means that in Barolo or Barbaresco some vineyards can produce spectacular wines from one specific part, but not from the others. A more detailed study of the vineyards with vineyard designations according to their quality could remedy this, but I understand why there are also producers vehemently against this: you might now have holdings in prestigious vineyards, but if this kind of study concluded that your specific part of vineyard wouldn't be eligible for a status equal to "Grand Cru" or "Premier Cru" (or whatever terms they might come up with), the value of your holdings could plummet considerably overnight. This kind of re-evaluation of the local terroir would undoubtedly benefit the consumer, but for a local producer this kind of vineyard research could be a serious gamble.

When talking about Barolo Crus, one can't leave Renato Ratti (1935–1988) unmentioned. This pioneering winemaker from Barolo's La Morra set out in the 70's and 80's to map the vineyards of Barolo. Not only did he map out the historic viticultural sub-regions and the Cru-level vineyards of Barolo, but also highlighted those relatively few vineyards (Brunate, Cannubi, Cerequio, Gabutti-Parafada, Lazzarito, Marenca-Rivette, Monprivato, Rocche dell'Annunziata, Rocche di Castiglione, Villero) he considered to be of the highest quality; the Grands Crus of Barolo, if you may. This "Cru map" of Barolo was vital to local producers in pointing out the most important regions of the region and it is still used extensively even today. Later on many have elaborated Ratti's map further, highlighting many more vineyards and other regions with several people trying to come up with their own "top tier of the best vineyards" – yet with noticeably little consensus on which vineyards truly are the best.

As a step toward officializing the Barolo Crus, the Barolo Consorzio introduced as late as in 2010 their own system of designating the sub-regions of Barolo as menzioni geografiche aggiuntive, or MEGA. However, with close to 200 different vineyards or village designations without any system for designating the possible differences in quality, this system might in the end be more confusing than beneficial for the consumer.

Then, back to Renato Ratti. In addition to creating the aforementioned first "Cru map" of Barolo, he also created one of the world's first single-vineyard Barolos, Marcenasco, already back in 1965. He set out to create a Barolo that would showcase the elegance and purity of Nebbiolo, yet with such longevity he believed only the grapes sourced from the Marcenasco sub-region could produce. By producing a remarkable Barolo of true distinction from a specific vineyard, many producers followed in suit, and now Barolo wines made from grapes sourced exclusively from a single, designated vineyard have become a staple of the region's wines. Apart for the youngest Marcenasco (vintage 2007), the following wines were enjoyed in a vertical tasting almost exactly two years ago and they showcase perfectly the remarkable longevity of Ratti's Marcenasco.

Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco
DOCG Barolo
  • Renato Ratti
  • Country: Italy
  • Region: Piedmont, Barolo
  • Grape(s): Nebbiolo (100%)




Introduced with the vintage 1965, this is one of the original single-vineyard Barolos, although not the very first one (as Vietti's Barolo Rocche di Castiglione and Prunotto's Barolo Bussia were already made from the vintage 1961). Originally Barolo Marcenasco was a single-vineyard Barolo made from a vineyard located in the historic Marcenasco sub-region, next to the hamlet of La Morra. However, after Ratti increased his holdings in this sub-region during the 1970's, including plots in the famed vineyards of Rocche dell'Annunziata and Conda dell'Abbazia, the wine was no longer a single-vineyard Barolo, but instead an "imaginary Cru", made from the best grapes harvested from several different vineyards in the Marcenasco sub-region, yet still considered as a Cru Barolo.

In 1969, Ratti's nephew, Massimo Martinelli, joined the winery and they perfected the vinification of Marcenasco. As opposed to the zeitgeist, when maceration times were long and aging regimes even longer (in an attempt to tone down the harsh tannins resulting from the prolonged maceration times) in Barolo, Marcenasco's fermentation was hastened, maceration time cut shorter and pre-release bottle aging was favored over long oak aging. Currently the maceration time of the wine is about 7–10 days, which is very short compared to the traditional maceration period that could last well over a month. After having completed the maceration and fermentation, the wine is first aged for 24 months in oak casks of 2500 and 5000 liters and finally for at least another 24 months more in bottles before release.

***

Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 2007
  • Tasted on: 17th of February, 2017

A very warm vintage that begun with a mild and dry winter, followed by an atypically warm spring. The second half of the year was hottest for the past two centuries, resulting in one of the earliest harvests in the region. Some regions suffered from the hot weather resulting in grapes that were picked too early to keep them from becoming overripe, but the best (aka coolest) Barolo sites fared tremendously well, letting the grapes reach optimum physiological ripeness and develop their flavors fully. At Renato Ratti winery the vintage is considered as annata eccenzionale ("exceptional vintage"), resulting in wines of remarkable complexity, concentration and longevity.

The wine's concentrated, almost opaque dark cherry color has a slightly developed maroon hue. The nose is incredibly rich, complex and profound with rather pronounced sweet oak character of cola, chocolate and cocoa nibs, but enough fruit to offset the oak with juicy aromas of ripe dark cherry, some floral rose petal notes, some smoke and a hint of sweet volatile acidity. Unlike the sweet nose, the wine is a lot drier on the palate with full body and very ample, but also very ripe and slowly gripping tannins. There are rich flavors of dark cherry, sour cherry, sweet oak spice, some sweet tar notes, a little cola and chocolate, a floral hint of roses and a touch of sweet volatile lift towards the aftertaste. The acidity is pretty high, which is really vital for a wine showing such concentration. The finish is very rich, ripe and concentrated with pretty lengthy and rather oak-driven flavors of tar, sweet oak spice, dark plummy fruit, a little dark cherry and a hint of volatility.

Overall Marcenasco 2007 seems very big, rich and impressive wine, but its oak characteristics still seem too pronounced – 10 years of age have done pretty little to the oak, so most likely it will need at least 10–15 more years to integrate the wood character better with the fruit. But even though I am not a fan of oak-driven wines, I found this wine surprisingly enjoyable and satisfying, all due to its impressive structure and that wonderful harmony between the body, the acidity and the tannins.

92/100
Summary: I have never understood why some people are so eager to describe wines "masculine" or "feminine", but if one were to use this kind of sexist terminology, I can imagine this wine would be a stereotypical example of a "masculine" Nebbiolo: big, rich, concentrated and rather oak-heavy with muscular tannins and imposing presence. Although the wine feels rather modern with its polished new oak sheen, it still shows that good Barolo structure beneath its glossy surface. I can imagine this wine will turn out to be tremendous with enough age (at least 10 more years), but currently it's quite a bit too heavily oaked for my taste. Still, the high quality of the wine is obvious even under all that new wood.

***

Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 1989
  • Tasted on: 12th of February, 2015

A superb vintage regarded as annata grande ("great vintage") in Marcenasco by the Ratti winery. Considered as one of the classic Barolo vintages of the past few decades, although often overshadowed by the exceptional and noticeably warmer vintage 1990 that followed.

Pale, translucent cherry red color that is already slightly bricking with a deep orange hue. Quite dry, savory and rather restrained nose with complex aromas of red cherry, tart cranberry, some dusty earth, a little leather, hints of sweet rosy floral nuances and a touch of something slightly animal. Although the nose lacks a bit power, it really doesn't lack depth. On the palate the wine is full-bodied with rather soft acidity and quite modest, even a bit mellow tannins. The flavors are quite dry, although revealing attractive ripe red cherry notes and some tarry earthiness, supported by understated nuances of leather, stony minerality, some rather bitter spiciness and a touch of very sweet strawberry. The finish is very gentle and more sweeter than the midpalate with very complex of cherry marmalade, Asian spices, ripe strawberry, some smoke and tar and a hint of bitterness. The tannins give a slight tug to the aftertaste.

No wonder 1989 is considered as a fantastic vintage of Barolo: this wine showcased all the characteristics of an aged Barolo with remarkable fruit concentration – although the wine showed some signs of age, it would've been very easy to guess it as a lot younger vintage, if served blind!

93/100
Summary: As the wine was more about developed, sweet fruit and remarkable complexity than about stern, tightly-knit structure, this wine was definitely a treat on its own, but much less so with food – it lacks the brightness to cut through. Bear this mind, if you happen to come across this wine. Even though I love the sharp acidity and grippy tannins of Nebbiolo this wine didn't really showcase, it was still nothing short of fantastic to me.

***

Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 1985
  • Tasted on: 12th of February, 2015

Overall this hot year is not considered as one of the region's better vintages, as both the yields and alcohol levels were high, 1985 was considered as annata eccezionale ("exceptional vintage") by Renato Ratti, producing wines of remarkable character, structure, length and intensity in Marcenasco.

The wine's color is translucent but quite dark cherry red with slightly maroon hue towards the rim. The nose betrays slight hints of oxidative characters like raisin and stewed fruit, yet it also shows lots of life and nicely aged notes of red cherry, dried dates, sweet floral aromatics, a little almond and a hint of strawberry jam. The wine is quite rich and full-bodied on the palate, but even though the overall flavors suggest quite a lot of sweetness, overall the wine still feels quite dry, spicy and savory. There are flavors of cherry and even cherry marmalade, powerful exotic spice character, some raisin and a hint of dried dates. The structure is really impressive due to the high acidity and very firm tannins that still show quite some grip after 30 years. The wine finishes with a really long, complex and developed aftertaste of exotic spices, dried red berries, sour cherry, syrupy molasses, some nuttiness and faint mushroomy tones. The tannins give the aftertaste good, somewhat astringent grip.

The vintage 1985 hasn't stood up to the test of time as nicely as many of the other vintages tasted here, but it still drinks very nicely, eventually turning out to be a lot nicer than what the somewhat over-developed notes initially suggested.

92/100
Summary: This is definitely a lot more impressive wine on the palate than what the nose led to expect. The wine shows remarkable acid and tannin structure, so even though this is a 30-year old wine, it's still more of a food wine than a smooth and silky meditation wine. Very lovely effort, but somewhat overshadowed by the two surrounding vintages.

***

Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 1983
  • Tasted on: 12th of February, 2015

A vintage Renato Ratti considered (only) as an annata buona, "a good vintage", for Marcenasco, whereas it is otherwise considered as quite a weak vintage in Barolo, due to cool spring, uneven weather during the early summer and high humidity throughout the growing season, resulting in high occurrences of rot. The wines aren't normally considered as ageworthy due to their modest acidity and tannin levels.

Translucent, but quite dark cherry color with somewhat developed, maroon hue and rather obvious bricking towards the rim. The nose is really fragrant, surprisingly sweet and immensely attractive with deep, rich and floral aromas of roses, cherry marmalade, beautiful and elegant volatile lift, a little smoke and lovely, developed fruit aromas of raisin, caramel and plum marmalade. The nose has even a slightly sticky quality to it, giving it almost a red Beerenauslese-kind of character. On the palate the wine feels full-bodied and velvety with quite intense flavors of sweet spices, dried cherries, leather, sweet plummy fruit, some tangy sour cherry and a hint of raisin. Despite the modest vintage the wine shows good, balanced acidity and ample, but quite ripe and mellow tannins. The finish is long, complex and delicate with a kaleidoscope of developed flavors: cherry juice, prunes, bitter sour cherry, tart cranberry, some earthy tones, a little exotic spices, a hint of raisin and a touch of mushroomy character.

Despite not being a vintage that'll set no hopes up, Marcenasco 1983 manages to seriously impress. I mean really. Wow. Incredible complexity, depth and harmony. Although the age has concentrated the fruit so that it starts to veer into that quite sweet, dried fruit territory, that sweetness is wonderfully offset by the wine's balanced structure.

95/100
Summary: One of the best Marcenascos I've had, easily. The wine is drinking really nicely right now with its completely resolved tannins and although the wine will probably keep still for some good years, the developed dried fruit character is starting to signal that it should be drunk preferably sooner than later. Infinitely attractive effort and really a positive surprise from a generally poorly regarded vintage.

***

Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 1979
  • Tasted on: 12th of February, 2015

An above average vintage: the spring had some frosts and the late summer and early autumn light rains, but overall the weather was quite warm and pretty easy for the growers. The biggest problem was rainy October, diluting especially the later-harvested wines (ie. the majority of Nebbiolo). The best wines from this vintage were harvested early enough before the rains fell. According to Renato Ratti, 1979 was an annata ottima ("optimum (very good) vintage") – a bit better than just "good", but nothing really stunning. 1979 Marcenascos should show both elegance and intensity.

The wine has a translucent and rather pale red color with a luminous Campari hue. The nose isn't that expressive, but instead very elegant and attractive with nuanced aromas of dried cherry, orange peel, some oxidative nutty notes – even borderline hints of bread – and dusty earth with a slightly funky animal undertone. On the palate the wine feels full-bodied, smooth and rich with rather modest acidity and ripe, mellow tannins. The flavors are starting to veer into that rather sweet, aged fruit territory, revealing interweaving nuances of red berry marmalade, dried figs, some sweet spiciness and hints of sour cherry bitterness. Just like the nose, also the flavors are quite subtle and mellow, lacking the youthful intensity. The finish is quite soft and round as well, yet lengthy enough, with flavors velvety, slightly sweet flavors of cherry marmalade, allspice, some leather and a hint of dried figs.

Compared to some of the other vintages tasted in this vertical, the 1979 vintage was obviously lighter and more delicate in flavor, yet showing really lovely, aged complexity.

91/100
Summary: I guess this is the kind of vintage some people would love to describe as "feminine" – it is more delicate and mellow than many of the other vintages tasted. Although the wine shows lovely balance and captivating flavors, it is reaching the far end of its peak and probably will fall apart – probably sooner than later. As the structure has resolved itself to the point of feeling very soft and round, this wine is obviously one to be enjoyed on itself, not with any dishes requiring wines of great structure.

***

Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 1974
  • Tasted on: 12th of February, 2015

After a late spring, 1974 was a quite optimal vintage for the winegrowers, with warm, steady weather allowing the grapes to mature easily throughout the region. On average the wines showed less acidity than normal with ripe, rich fruit and firm tannins. Renato Ratti agreed that 1974 was also an annata ottima ("very good vintage") for the Marcenasco wines. The grapes for Marcenasco 1974 were sourced exclusively from the Cru vineyard Rocche dell'Annunziata.

Despite the wine's cherry red color is quite dark-hued, it is also remarkably translucent and almost watery clear towards the rim. The nose shows quite powerful, funky and dirty aromas suggesting that the wine might have seen a bit too much oxygen over the years; there are intense and quite naughty aromas of animal rusticity, moist soil, root vegetables, some mushroomy notes, a little bit of rainy forest and a hint of dried salt-cured meat. On the palate the continues down the funk road with robust and also somewhat sweet flavors of cherries, dried figs, pronounced bitterness, some Mediterranean spices and a little smoky earth. The wine has full body and quite stern and grippy structure with good acidity and very ample, although somewhat resolved tannins. Overall the wine seems slightly musty and it takes a slightly volatile turn to "wild" aromas with air. The finish is very bitter and acid-driven with robust tannic grip and long, rough flavors of sour cherries, loamy soil, some toasted spices, light animal notes and a hint of old furniture.

Despite the good vintage, 1974 Marcenasco failed to impress. Most likely it's more about bottle variation than how the vintage should be drinking right now, so the score is not really representative of the vintage, but only this bottle.

86/100
Summary: Probably marred by some oxidation, this wine wasn't that impressive as the best vintages. You could easily taste the power, the concentration and the tightly knit tannic structure, but the funky and even somewhat unpleasant off notes distracted so much that the experience was actually rather modest.

***

Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 1971
  • Tasted on: 12th of February, 2015

Usually 1971 is considered to be the vintage of the decade: both cold winter lasting long into spring and intermittent spring hails reduced the yields noticeably, whereas long, hot summer and dry, warm autumn ripened the remaining Nebbiolo grapes easily to perfect ripeness. Renato Ratti also considered 1971 to be annata eccezionale, an "exceptional vintage", for Marcenasco, resulting in incredibly perfumed and harmonious wines. The grapes for Marcenasco 1971 were sourced exclusively from the Cru vineyard Rocche dell'Annunziata.

Quite dark and ever so slightly hazy maroon-hued cherry color with lovely copper highlights and the appearance turning from orange to almost completely limpid towards the rim. Incredibly attractive nose with stunning depth and complexity; there are developed, perfumed aromas of leather, dried figs, wizened cherries, mocha, some oxidative sweet syrup notes and a little roasted nut character with a hint of Middle Eastern spice market. On the palate the wine is lively, full-bodied and incredibly rich with intense flavors of surprising power; there are notes of sweet red cherries, ripe red fruits, some exotic spices, a little leather and a hint of dried dark fruit. The structure is remarkable with both bright acidity and still quite firm and grippy tannins. The remarkably long finish is surprisingly lively and even youthful with complex, developed flavors of sweet red cherries, dark-toned fruit, sour cherry bitterness, some cranberry-driven tart red berries, a little exotic spices and a hint of peppery spice.

This is simply stunning stuff. 1971 Marcenasco is easily one of the greatest old Baroli I've had, offering a dumbfounding mélange of flavors both developed and remarkably youthful. Even at over 40 years of age, the wine seems that it hasn't reached its plateau of maturity, but instead it is still going up.

97/100
Summary: Obviously 1971 was capable of producing wines for the long haul in Barbaresco. Based on how this bottle was drinking, this fella is not going anywhere anytime soon. Definitely a wine you'll want to get your hands on – an archetype of a well-made Nebbiolo that has aged just like they should.

***

Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 1970
  • Tasted on: 12th of February, 2015

Another stunning vintage that was very similar to the following year. However, 1970 is often overshadowed by 1971, which produced more opulent and structured wines. According to Renato Ratti, this was an annata grande ("great vintage") – the best kind of vintage there is, bar the few exceptional years you might have once every decade or two. The grapes for Marcenasco 1970 were sourced exclusively from the Cru vineyard Rocche dell'Annunziata.

By the appearance this 1970 is very similar to the 1971 next to it, only with very slightly paler hue; with its maroon highlights this looks like caramel-colored water with a reddish hue. The nose betrays some signs of oxidation, meaning that this specific wine isn't in optimal condition – if Marcenasco 1971 was so stunning, Marcenasco 1970 shouldn't be like a polar opposite to it. The nose is quite subdued and there are rather sharp and savory aromas of raisin, dried figs, sweet Tawny port, some dark-roasted coffee and hints of withered flowers. On the palate the wine feels full-bodied with grainy, resolved tannins and moderate acidity. The very developed, complex flavors reveal oxidative notes of dark syrup, sour cherry, dried dates, exotic spices, some raisin and a hint of nuttiness. The taste oxidizes quite quickly, becoming more dull and stylistically closer to tawny port with air. The finish is quite restrained and rather short with dépassé flavors of withered cherry, black tea, stony minerality, some roasted nuts and a hint of Oloroso Sherry tang.

Unfortunately this wine couldn't match the expectations; Marcenasco 1970 should be still going strong, but unfortunately after more than 40 years, bottle variations are an unfortunate fact. Obviously either the wine had been cellared in poor conditions at some point or the cork had started to let oxygen through, because although the wine wasn't completely dead and spoiled, it was obviously past its peak, lacking the fruit it still should show.

88/100
Summary: Although this wine has seen better days, it was still somewhat alive and pretty drinkable. If drunk without any other Baroli to compare to, it would have been easily a very enjoyable wine, but now, with stunning Marcenasco 1971 in a glass next to it, this wine failed to move me in any meaningful way. I'd still love to revisit the wine in the hopes of having a better bottle, because I've heard several times that Marcenasco 1970 is still drinking wonderfully – some people even say that they prefer this vintage over the 1971!

The wines: Marcenascos 1970–1989 with Rocche 1996.